The Bon Vivant Traveler

The Best Fall Getaway: New Orleans

2008-10-06T13:22:00.007-04:00

A luxurious yet affordable trip? In a major American city? It can be done this fall, despite soaring gas prices and an economy on the fritz. Travel to the city of New Orleans where extravagance is possible – if you only know where to look.

Stay

The Soniat House – Featured in 1,000 Places to See Before You Die, this glamorous boutique hotel exudes traditional New Orleans charm from its convenient perch in the French Quarter. Formerly a Creole carriage house, the owners have updated the space with sparkling chandeliers, marble soaking tubs and gorgeous linens without compromising any of the property’s historical integrity. Silver tea service, valet parking and a romantic stonewalled courtyard simply add to the magic. Twenty percent off specials available now, Sunday through Thursday with rooms starting in the $200 range.

W Hotel – Unabashedly modern, this cutting-edge Starwood property offers rooms as low as $189 while a new promotion gives the third night away for free to guests arriving on a Thursday, Friday or Saturday. Winner of AAA’s Four Diamond award, this hotspot is trendy enough for hipsters (Rande Gerber designed lounge, poolside cabanas) yet still within the realm of affordability.

Omni Royal Crescent – Perfect for families, art aficionados or those looking for an amazing deal, this hotel’s location in the chic Art District spells savings. Although it’s only a short walk to the French Quarter, the difference in geography makes for massive reductions in price with specials beginning as low as $99 per/night. Floor-to-ceiling windows, free wi-fi and a rooftop sundeck and hot tub pamper guests.

Do

Music, Festivals and Art:

Crescent City Blues & BBQ Festival – Hot music, Southern soul and delectable barbeque. Come hear local artists like Marva Wainwright and Walter “Wolfman” Washington free of charge.

VooDoo Music Experience – Diverse musicians unite at this three day concert in City Park with big-name acts like Panic at the Disco, Joss Stone, REM and Lil Wayne. Tickets range from $40-$50 per/day (discounted three-day passes also available) with free admission to children under the age of eight.

Swamp Fest - The Audubon Zoo hosts a festival celebrating Cajun music, food and culture with special events for children.

Prospect 1. – Contemporary art showcase of massive proportions, founded and curated by Dan Cameron, formerly of the New Museum of Contemporary Art in New York City.

Tours:

Swamp Tour – Watch alligators, nutria and other wildlife from the safety of your boat – just remember to keep your hands safely inside.

Oak Alley Plantation – Featured in Anne Rice’s Interview With a Vampire, this breathtaking property is famous for both its history and its popularity in movies.

Laura Plantation – Tour guides tell fascinating stories about the families who ran this two hundred year-old Creole sugar plantation, mainly based on the writings of Laura Locoul Gore.

Sporting Events:

Football – Come see the legendary New Orleans Saints in the Superdome or visit for the Bayou Classic.

Dine

Commander’s Palace – This gloriously over-the-top restaurant has been awarded top honors by the James Beard Foundation, Food & Wine and Gourmet. Although dinners here are costly, lunch is affordable with twenty-five cent martinis and entrees under twenty dollars.

Jacques Imo’s Café – Locals love the eccentric atmosphere and Creole cooking. Since it’s outside of the traditional tourist areas, prices are reasonable and generous portions of spicy blackened fish, mashed sweet potatoes and barbeque shrimp abound. Wild bayou murals and multicolored Christmas lights add to the zany, New Orleans ambience.

Central Grocery – Featured on NBC’s Today Show, this deli serves enormous muffulettas (round, sub-like sandwiches stacked with Italian meat, cheese and marinated olive salad) that could feed a family of four.

Café du Monde – Opened in 1862, this outdoor café has become a New Orleans institution. Grab a bag of warm beignets dusted with powdered sugar, a café au lait and sit down at a table near the Mississippi River like a true local.

It's Young, it's Hip...it's Wine?

2008-10-06T08:43:00.014-04:00

“Wine without the attitude,” is the surprising yet encouraging mantra of the maverick Neighborhood Tasting Society, a New York City organization as friendly and hip as its founder and director Stefani Jackenthal. As Stefani will gleefully inform you at one of her public classes, there are no right and wrong answers when tasting wine, merely differences in opinion. Each two-hour class focuses on a specific topic with past events ranging from the holiday themed Pinot Bianco & Pinot Noir…and no Green Beer to the sexy Cool Coastal & Mediterranean Wines for H-O-T Nights. Both the range and depth of varietals covered in her classes make it easy for beginning oenophiles to experiment, while her wine tasting mixers combine education along with amore.

Should you be willing to shell out more serious bank, Jackenthal and uber-chef Yvette James will demystify the world of wine and food pairings in the privacy and comfort of your own home. The NTS also performs corporate events, offering employers everything from team building exercises to wine etiquette lessons. Contact the NTS directly for rates.

Not Your Average Mac & Cheese

2008-06-17T17:19:00.024-04:00

Let's be honest. Your travel photos can generally be found in one of two places: either stuck in hard drive limbo or stuffed in an old shoebox under the bed. Tragic? Totally. Because after using your camera to capture gazelles roaming the African bush and your brother’s destination wedding in Jamaica, you should preserve these treasured images along with the memories. Fortunately there's a solution. Round-up your JPEGS and email them to Mac and Cheese Design. Founded by two Parsons Grads, this design firm will transform your dusty stack o' pics into a glossy book faster than you can say vavoom. The resulting photo albums are effortlessly chic, fashionably sleek and coffee table ready. Did I mention they're customizable with fabric and layout? They also make meaningful gifts for family and friends - think anniversaries, weddings and showers.

Lisbon's Sexy Vibe

2008-04-20T12:23:00.034-04:00

Lisbon's vibe of decaying grandeur makes it unintentionally sexy and smolderingly atmospheric. Eccentrically cool in a Grey Gardens "descended from aristocracy but fallen on hard times" type of chic, I can't get enough of the rusted ironwork balconies or weathered shutters. American stores like Anthropologie are always trying to manufacture the distressed look but it lacks a certain authenticity. Needless to say, Lisbon is muito cool since it's all leggy girls smoking cigarettes in outdoor cafes, antique stores packed floor to ceiling with funky art, and beer bars that keep it real with a combo of sophisticates and grizzled, unseemly drunks for patrons. New York City's East Village would kill for Lisbon's edginess. Oh and did I mention the crumbling castles or late night boites leaking Fado music into the evening air? But ladies, just a word of advice given the ancient street sitch - leave the Manolo slingbacks at home. From personal experience I can vouch for the fact that: Drinks + Cobblestones + Heels = Disaster.

When you visit you'll want to spend the morning walking through a romantic wormhole to the past in a neighborhood known as Alfama. The oldest and most atmospheric quarter of Lisbon, it resembles a Portuguese Norman Rockwell painting come to life: children kick soccer balls down dusty streets, neighbors yell across balconies and women in aprons string laundry up on clotheslines. It is in Alfama that Matt and I stop into a café of questionable provenance whose presence is announced by no open door, no official looking sign, but rather - a piece of paper taped outside that merely reads “vinho verde” in black marker. Intrigued, we enter this dimly lit haunt and enjoy our sweet, carbonated white wine while chatting with the owner about soccer and politics in a mélange of English, broken Spanish and charade-like hand gestures. The menu, another piece of paper taped to the wall features six choices - all of them fresh fish.

Nearby we visit Castelo de Sao Jorge, a sixth century castle full of high towers and ancient ramparts. After touring the grounds we tram it down to Solar do Vinho do Porto. Offering more than 200 varieties of Port, this specialty bar is housed inside a converted mansion and makes a great, if expensive, starting point from which to sample Portugal's famous fortified wine.

Dodging an afternoon rainstorm we take haven inside A Brasileria, a bohemian cafe serving custard tarts, coffee and a whole lot of atmosphere. But having heard rumors about Lisbon's legendary Ginjinha (local cherry brandy) we head around the corner for a taste. Rumor has it that the cherries placed in your glass contain lethal amounts of alcohol - sadly, ours come sans fruit but the brandy itself packs a punch. For dinner we repair to Cafe Martinho da Arcada in the Baixa district. Founded in 1782 it retains the honor of being the oldest cafe in Lisbon as well as a former literary haunt. Jacketed waiters serve rustically prepared cuisine - shrimp simmered in garlic, crispy herb roasted potatoes, fresh fish and steak wrapped in aged ham that all hit the right notes at our last official port of call.

Wine Tasting Aboard the Queen Victoria

2008-04-18T12:23:00.012-04:00

Wine tasting seminars with Chief Sommelier Michael Standen are pretty sweet. First of all, you get to sample six different wines and pair them with nibbles like fruit, cheese & meat. He’ll also arm you with an informative booklet featuring wine aroma and mouth-feel wheels to help you hone your sense of smell and taste. But admittedly, the wheels are also useful for crafting pretentious phrases like “I detect vegetative notes of cut grass.” The buzz words you learn in this seminar (terroir, palate, tannins) while useful for wine tasting, can alternatively be used to pick-up women or also, to impress your boss at company dinners.

We sampled Champagne, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Chateuneuf-du-Pape, Pinotage and a Bordeux Blend. My favorite was the 2004 Chateau Mont-Redon Chateauneuf-du-Pape that smells of black currant and pepper. (See how good I’m getting with my wine aroma wheel? Ha.) I can just imagine pairing it with some lamb, stew or even ribs. But even if you just pop it open with some cheddar cheese and crackers, like I’m apt to do on a Friday evening, it’d still be delish.

Barcelona: Foodie Paradise

2008-04-17T11:36:00.014-04:00

In Barcelona the holy trinity of bohemian culture meet – art, food and wine. There is the sipping of sangria. The munching of fried, juicy ham croquetas oozing cheese and the pure pleasure of lounging beneath the shadow of medieval buildings in the Gothic Quarter. Street performers and artists line the sidewalks. Laughter bubbles up from outdoor cafes. It's impossible not to be seduced by the beautiful people, savory food and striking architecture everywhere you turn.

We set out early to view Gaudi’s masterpiece, La Sagrada Familia Cathedral, Barcelona’s most distinctive landmark. Afterwards, we pop into the Picasso Museum, a surprisingly intimate gallery housed in two 15th century palaces. Exhibiting a wide range of art, including the Las Meninas series, it’s a powerful tribute to Picasso’s talent and offers glimpses at many of his earlier, lesser known works.

Afterwards we hit up Bar Pintoxo, an outdoor tapas stand housed inside the Mercat de la Boqueria. With no written menu and even less organized ordering, we mercifully take what the chef brings us - plates of meat, enormous crawfish and glasses of sparkly cava. He cooks for a huge crowd of admirers and as we’re seated a foot away from his tiny stovetop we’re able to marvel at his talent in the kitchen. The confines of elbow-to-elbow dining results in pleasant chatter with friendly locals and plenty of chances to practice our Spanish.

At Irati, the mood changes from frantic to romantic. Professionals speak softly, langouring in the dimly lit, modern space. The glass-topped bar brims with plates of every toothpickable snack imaginable. Bacon wrapped prawns! Warm mozzarella and roasted pepper slices on baguette! Sizzling chorizo! Patrons are charged on how many toothpicks are left on their plate before they exit (of which we have plenty, after discovering the fried seafood). Several glasses of Rioja later, we amble over to Bodega La Plata to drink humble homemade wine out of barrels while grumpy old men gossip loudly and wolf down fried sardines from a giant can on the counter. We're the only tourists here, which makes it worth the walk. (Tip: Try the sardines. Although they look scary they taste awesome, and they're a local specialty. There are only 3 types of wine to choose from - red, rose and white so don't expect bells and whistles but that's part of the fun.)

Forging onwards with full stomaches we hit Taller de Tapas for chilled sangria, laced with floating orange slices. The calamari is perfection, though they come with eyes, antennae and all. Beer lovers should make a pit stop at Bar del Pi for local cervesas (Bock Damm and San Miguel), as this place stocks plenty of choices. If you’re a foodie, an oenophile or enjoy nightlife – this is a city you’ll love – and when you’re not eating and drinking your way around town, there’s enough architecture, art and atmosphere to keep you occupied for days.

Rome - The Good, The Bad, The Ugly

2008-04-15T11:11:00.017-04:00

Rome, in all of its extremes, typifies the absolute pinnacle and the (at times) worst of Italian culture. On the plus side are the ancient ruins, opulent architecture and world class art collections capable of romancing even the most jaded traveler. Then there is the food (oh, the food!), the satisfying snap of al dente pasta, the creamy decadence of hazelnut gelatto, the rich, salty gluttony of carbonara sauce. And it's hard not to envy a culture where passion rules, pleasure is indulged and relaxing is encouraged.

However, the exchange rate can send a casual dinner into the exorbitant realm quickly, and the crowds of tourists seem to be omnipresent. Most likely you'll be doing quite a bit of walking, so pack comfortable shoes and your patience (or better yet: hire a private car to whisk you around to avoid the madness on the street).

Seeing the Colosseum was the highlight of my day and we took the audio tour (totally worth the few extra Euros) that dispensed lots of historical info about the games, gladiators and so forth. Afterwards we strolled through the massive Piazzas framed by baroque cathedrals and ivy draped mansions. Street after street offered one atmospheric café after another, with fashionable locals in sunglasses smoking and chatting and gesticulating wildly with their hands while bands of serious looking priests wandered past (oh, how Italian!). We munched at crowded outdoor tables, downing snacks here and there – splitting paninis, bowls of homemade pasta and cones of gelato (the Tiramisu flavor is a must-try). One of our favorite spots was Cul de Sac, a streetside enoteca with a huge wine list and Italian tapas. It’s impossible not to be seduced by the charm, number and artistry of the sights, food and culture which is why, even though Rome can be chaotic and loud at times, it's absolutely worth visiting and a once in a lifetime experience.

La Dolce Vita in Capri

2008-04-15T11:00:00.015-04:00

If there is a place to roll around on your bed in La Perla underwear while eating bonbons and drinking expensive champagne, it is Capri. So if this sounds like your thing, then book your tickets, drop your kids/pets/live-in manny at your mother-in-law’s house and fly to Italy as soon as humanly possible.

Once used as a getaway for Roman emperors and later on, as a destination for the world’s fashionable elite, it should come as no surprise that Capri is overwhelmingly chic. It’s the Audrey Hepburn, the Carolina Herrera, the dare I say it…Jackie O. of the vacation world. Yet what separates this Italian island from other exclusive retreats is that Capri isn’t overdone. It’s not a scene, nor does it cater to tourists in all of the obvious ways that so many destinations often do in order to attract business. There are no flashing lights or casinos. No Pizza Hut darkens these shores (thankfully this is the land of homemade pizza dough, made with real herbs and recipes passed down from Nonna). And since there are no sixty floor mega-hotels crowding the waterfront, when you ride the funicular on your way up the steep, rocky coast to the top, all you see are tiny whitewashed villas perching daintily over miles of sparkling turquoise sea.

Refreshingly, the locals own thriving businesses cooking, managing small hotels and operating upscale boutiques. Vespas cruise up and down side streets while children walk home from soccer practice. The fact that locals continue to live here adds an element of timelessness to Capri’s beauty that one rarely finds when traveling. There is nothing manufactured about this island’s glamour and in stark contrast to a place like Dubai, it is the island’s appealing authenticity that is a simple luxury in itself. Its homage to culture, tradition and antiquity is something that exists organically, upping the charm factor immensely.

On my recent jaunt here I began my day at the Piazzetta, the social heart of the island where over glasses of Italian wine my husband and I watched men in cashmere sweaters savor bowls of pasta, immaculately turned out in leather shoes and cufflinks. Europeans on vacation lazily read newspapers at nearby café tables, shaded from the sun by large umbrellas. Women laden down with gold jewelry and oversized Tod’s bags navigated the cobblestone streets in stiletto heels. There was bubbly conversation. Air kisses were exchanged. Cocktail waiters bustled between the crowded bistro tables with silver trays balancing cocktails and bowls of taralli, a sort of savory, addictive Italian cracker. It could have been the beautiful weather or the result of a limoncello-induced haze, but everyone seemed to be smiling, staring at the cloudless blue sky and taking their time eating, drinking and enjoying life through the lenses of their very expensive sunglasses. It’s a very welcoming place this Capri, especially after a few glasses of Chianti.

Sadly, our plan to visit the Blue Grotto was foiled as it was closed due to rough seas so instead Matt and I made the executive decision to scoot down a series of turret-like steps to La Pergola for lunch. Our table practically hovered over the water, situated as it was on a stone terrace surrounded by breathtaking ocean views on one side and a fragrant lemon grove on the other. Hours passed along with the courses - a Caprese salad, crusty bread, fresh seafood, fruit, more wine. Our waiter, applauding our basic attempts at Italian conversation loaded us down with free glasses of the chef’s personal limoncello, made from the fruit trees in the garden. It is at this point that I fully fell in love with Capri, and maybe a little bit, our Italian chef.

The generosity of the welcoming locals, the so-simple-it's-sophisticated food, the impressive cliffside views and flowering vegetation all create an enveloping experience of understated elegance. In Capri you can sink into a lazy afternoon from a hotel balcony, sip a bottle of the best wine in the world or shop for $30,000 jewelry crafted out of diamonds and coral. Or you can swim in the sea, nibble on lemon granita and spend the afternoon in a local’s kitchen. This island is at once sophisticated and childish, luxurious and humble. You can engage exactly as much or as little with the world around you as you wish, which is why it makes the perfect spot for a honeymoon as well as an ideal place for a family vacation. My idea of a perfect day would involve quietly lounging poolside, listening to the ebb and flow of the waves below while reading and drinking strong, Italian espresso. In the afternoon I’d dress for shopping, cocktails and a fabulous Italian dinner followed by a walk with my husband down those romantic alleyways, overgrown with flowers and vines. Needless to say - I'm coming back as soon as I possibly can.

Details

Stay:
J.K. Place – This fashion forward boutique hotel set above the Marina Grande offers concierge service including helicopter transfers and boat rides, the use of a stunning heated outdoor pool, posh dining room, bar and spa services. Prices range from $500 to $2,200 Euros a night.

Dine:
Da Paolino (Palazzo a Mare 11, 081-8376102) – Located only a short walk away from J.K. Place, this classic Capri standby often plays host to celebrities, but still remains popular for its fresh, homemade pasta with locals and visiting tourists. Outdoor seating in a fragrant lemon grove ups the romance factor. Prices range from $30 to $60 Euros per/person.

Drink:
Guarracino Taverna (Via Castello 7, 081-837-0514) – This rustic, authentic tavern (formerly an olive oil press) is conveniently located a stone’s throw from La Piazzetta and makes you feel like a real Italian without the exorbitant prices so common in Capri.

Shop:
Carthusia – Go home smelling like those beautiful Italian women or pick up a bottle as a gift for a special friend. These limited production perfumes are created using the ancient techniques of the Carthusian monks, while local flora is added to give the various fragrances their exotic, special scent.

Limoncello di Capri – Lemon trees run rampant on Capri and this traditional Italian after-dinner drink celebrates the local fruit in a delicious way. Less sugary and refreshingly tarter than many other limoncellos available Stateside, this one packs a punch and is the perfect thing to remind you of your vacation once you return home.

Canfora – Handmade leather sandals ranging from the demure to more eye-catching versions embellished with bling, whimsical flowers and sea life are available for purchase. Undoubtedly chic, these classic kicks are the perfect complement to a simple summer shift dress or a pair of raw silk cropped pants.

Athens, Greece

2008-04-12T09:15:00.007-04:00

So it turns out that ouzo gives you really bad hangovers. Ditto for absinthe. And since some of us were up late last night drinking absinthe mojitos, shots of ouzo and the odd cigarette or eight - this entry is going to be kind of like my visit to Athens – short, but sweet. The ancient architecture in this city is stunning, so if you travel here be sure not to miss the Acropolis, the Athens Marble Stadium, Hadrian’s Arch, Temple of Olympian Zeus or the National Archeological Museum which all offer glimpses into the city’s illustrious past.

After marveling at the jaw-dropping views of the city from the Acropolis, Matt & I decided to soak up some local culture, something which we found both amazing and insufferable in equal parts. But even the negatives: the loud, screaming chatter, the pushing and shoving on the subway and the apathetic service seemed to melt away when we observed the passion and joy with which the Greeks live life. They are just as quick to buy you a drink as to step on your foot and once you get used to this erratic behavior, it becomes kind of liberating.

We stopped in at Bretto’s Ouzeri, a quaint marble-topped bar crammed with wall-to-wall bottles of exotically flavored liqueur and giant barrels of ouzo. Sip a decadent cocktail, smoke the Cubans on offer and chat with the gossipy locals (who are more than happy to tell you every last detail about themselves). We loved it so much we came back twice in the same day. If you’re into beer, a must-see is Craft, Athens’ only microbrewery. We adored the Weisse Lager and Black Ale and paired them with crispy zucchini fritters dipped in minty yogurt sauce for lunch. After viewing the guards outside the Parliament House and sipping vino at the Grand Bretagne Hotel (don’t miss the views from the rooftop bar on the 8th floor) we strolled around Psiri, an up and coming nabe full of coffee shops and nightlife boites popular with young locals. We popped into the Platanos Taverna for our last meal of the day and located down a series of winding alleyways, beneath the stars this outdoor café was incredibly romantic. In a neighborhood of crumbling row houses and courtyards dripping with bougainviella, we ate in a dimly lit courtyard filled with Greek families. The tender lamb, spicy moussaka, warm bread and feta cheese (washed down with a local white wine) was simple, totally unpretentious and nothing short of perfect. If you're planning a trip - check out Matt Barrett's Athens Guide, it's an insider's guide chock full of practical information and a great resource for any traveler.

Activities Onboard the Queen Victoria

2008-04-10T09:08:00.004-04:00

The Queen Victoria is a fab ship with plenty of lavish details (a martini bar with wall to wall glass windows overlooking the ocean) and small luxuries (white gloved tea service). A Veuve Clicquot Champagne Bar, Todd English restaurant, cushy cabins and elegant teak deck chairs only contribute to the posh British ship effect. Plus, Cunard’s emphasis on customer service and a 2-to-1 guest to crew ratio means that you’ll be very well looked after indeed. However, there are a few crucial things you should be aware of before planning to cruise on the Queen Victoria.

First, Cunard markets themselves to an elderly audience. I kid you not: seminars on arthritis and swollen ankles, vegetable carving demonstrations and bingo games are daily occurrences. But the sports on the ship are truly redeeming and include: paddle tennis, table tennis, outdoor chess, an indoor gym, shuffleboard, deck quoits, golf chipping cages (for an additional fee), fencing, ballroom dancing classes and use of the two pools and four Jacuzzis.

Additional activities include: wine tasting seminars, travel lectures, musical theater productions, an internet center, board games, line dancing classes, cocktail mixology classes, whist and bridge tournaments, black-tie balls, art auctions, comedians and daily trivia. The casino features slot machines, blackjack, roulette, Caribbean poker and 3-stud poker. Matinee movies are offered at 2 p.m. daily and range from classics (Gone With the Wind) to current (No Country For Old Men). There’s also a two-story library which has a nice selection of fiction and non-fiction as well as a massive assortment of travel books. And then of course, there are the bars & lounges in which to tipple an expertly made cocktail and dance the night away.

You won’t find ice skating rinks or video arcades – so if you’ve got young kids or are looking for people under 40 to party the night away with, this might not be your ship. But in a strange way, this lack of trendy activities is actually an asset for those passengers looking to avoid the dreaded "family vacationers" so prevalent on other cruise lines. Meaning that on the Queen Victoria you can settle into your enormous chaise lounge, wait for the waitress to take your drink order and then happily sip your daiquiri in adults-only peace (no screaming kids by the pool…no hordes of roaming teens in the clubs...hooray!) while you listen to the sound of the waves quietly crashing below you.

Egypt: Luxor, Karnak & Valley of the Kings

2008-04-09T08:46:00.006-04:00

Sleepily, we board our bus at sunrise and watch the tiny port town of Safaga recede into the distance. Mountains give way to barren desert plains brushed in shades of ochre and burnt umber, the landscape so utterly remote that it reminds me of emptiness. Nothingness stretches into nothingness here, flat sand blows unchecked for miles, and every twenty minutes or so we spot a Bedouin woman cloaked in black, moving slowly under the bright sun as her people have done for generations. Tiny makeshift homes of falling stone seem to appear out of nowhere while children crouch nervously in their shadowed doorways, the odd camel hitched to a post nearby. Occasionally we pause at a military checkpoint in a town of 50 or 100 where armed guards poke their heads out of watchtowers, aiming rifles at the road while men on donkeys pulling carts of sugarcane allow us to pass. There are smiles and waves exchanged. And then once again we are traveling through the desolate acres of sand, staring at nothing but the open sky.

And yet, once we arrive at our destination it rises like a mythic city out of the windswept desert. The Karnak Temple sprawls across 62 acres of sand, its tall obelisks, pillars and sculptures diverting sharply from the otherwise flat horizon. We walk through this massive complex of ancient ruins built by pharaohs over a period of two millennia and the effect is humbling in both scale and architectural grandeur. We roam like children through the labyrinth of corridors, beneath pillars scraping the sky, into dead ends and twisting alleyways of walls carved with birds, scarabs and ankhs, getting lost amid this romantically crumbling maze of stone.

The Temple of Luxor sits nearby, and shares some of Karnak’s architectural renderings. We visit the Avenue of human headed Sphinxes approaching 1.5 miles in length and crane our necks upwards to see the enormous sculptures glaring down at us. At sunset the effect is magical here, the orange sun descending into the Nile, the haunting song of the muezzin as he calls people to prayer, the echo of footsteps through dark stone passages. We also visit the Valley of the Kings, a city of the dead consisting of 62 tombs, including legendary King Tut’s. These tombs are carved straight into the mountains and upon descending into their innermost recesses, it is as if you are discovering a secret cave – one filled with elaborate wall paintings and carvings left thousands of years ago.

Shiver Me Timbers

2008-04-08T11:57:00.006-04:00

Nothing spoils a vacation quite like raping and pillaging, that's what I say. Apparently Cunard agrees, since they've just installed a sonic boom canon designed to deter people of the peg-legged, beer swilling, pet bird keeping variety from hijacking our ship. Unfortunately, this cannon like, so totally kills my idea for a passenger pirate-watch party sponsored by Captain Morgan Rum. Throw in a few pairs of binoculars, an all-you-can-drink rum bar and some wasted cruise guests and I'm thinking this would be much less expensive than the LRAD (Long Range Acoustic Technology), but what the hell do I know about marketing or business strategy. Seriously though Captain Morgan...if you're out there...I'm looking for a job in May.

Even though it ruined my Great Idea of the Century, I will forgive the LRAD's presence onboard since it will prevent us from being kidnapped for ransom like that French yacht and will save us from gunfire in the Suez Canal (where we happen to be headed).

And FYI peeps. Mark your calendars. Or treasure maps. Or whatever. International Talk Like a Pirate Day is September 19th.

Todd English On The Queen Victoria

2008-04-06T06:09:00.002-04:00

Matt and I have now been to the Todd English restaurant onboard the Queen Victoria several times and it just keeps getting better. At only $20 per/person for lunch and $30 per/person for dinner it’s a real value in terms of service and food. Generous baskets of warm rolls and seasoned flatbreads are served upon arrival with assorted tapenades. The décor is muted and intimate with its chic booths overlooking the ocean and tables covered in simple white table linens – a drastic departure from the main dining room which can be huge, crowded and impersonal. The appetizers and entrees are always competently cooked, not to mention enormous and expertly plated. We particularly love the seafood here and there’s no doubt that the ingredients served in Todd English are held to a more rigorous standard than elsewhere on the ship. They are simply fresher and of higher quality than those served in the Brittania dining room so come here to celebrate a special occasion or to splurge on a romantic meal for two with a bottle of wine. You’ll leave feeling well-looked after, satisfied and content with this sophisticated departure from the rest of the ship’s old-fashioned fare. A little piece of modern Manhattan gastronomy has found its way onto the Queen Victoria and all I can say is Hallelujah for that!

Oman's "Second City" - Salalah

2008-04-04T09:55:00.007-04:00

Salalah, located on the southeastern edge of the Arabian Peninsula is all stunning white beaches and acres of desert. This stark landscape seduces the imagination; this striking contrast of camels and men in white dishdashas and muzzars silhouetted against the vast expanse of sky seems to channel scenes straight out of Lawrence of Arabia, making you feel as if you are very, very far away from home. Upon arrival, it so hot that the air seems to waver, while swift breezes sweep across the flat terrain, rustling the palm fronds and propelling sand across the few pavement roads. Several passengers are pick pocketed in town, though we experience none of this threatening behavior, and are instead driven around by an amiable Ahmad, who races his taxi at Grand Prix-like speeds down the deserted highway.

Though Salalah possesses several points of interest for tourists (Job’s tomb, Al Balid archaeological site, Mughsail Beach), the city is most famous for its abundance of frankincense, available for purchase at the Al Husn Souk. Matt and I chose to forgo this shopping excursion in order to drink margaritas, having purchased all of the frankincense we need, which is to say, exactly none. Instead we spent the afternoon enjoying the sound of waves breaking on the beach from a pair of lounge chairs at the Salalah Hilton Resort. Though it’s located in the middle of nowhere (which says a lot, since the town of Salalah is already sort of in the middle of nowhere) its isolation only serves to increase the level of exoticism one feels upon arrival.

Hammocks dot the sandy beach and soft music is piped in by the poolside, where waiters quietly bestow drinks on the few vacationers scattered here and there. The Hilton’s Palm Grove Restaurant offers world class satay, beautiful spiced kebabs and crisp salads. Kitted out in an Arabian Nights-meets-Ikea minimalist décor, the design truly inspires the simple beachside boite, making it a zen spot in which to dine while gazing at the turquoise ocean. We finish off the afternoon befriending locals by assuring them that though we are American, we aren’t Bush supporters. Oddly (or not), this brings on a series of enthusiastic kisses from a Muslim man who then attempts to sell me a taxidermied lobster. Puzzled but ultimately amused, Matt & I speed back to the ship passing a vista of palm trees and sand, palm trees and sand as we prepare to set sail for the distant shores of Egypt.

Dubai:Playground of the Rich & Famous

2008-04-02T09:57:00.020-04:00

Like a Hollywood movie set on steroids, Dubai is a city of exotic facades designed to excite the senses and create a faux reality for those who can afford it. Ski hills in shopping malls, manmade islands visible from outer space and rotating apartment buildings are only a few examples of Dubai's "more is more" philosophy. Yet it's a city of contradictions - modernists struggle to make Dubai first in tourism and trade, yet they must work within the confines of social traditionalists trying to preserve local culture amid a constant influx of expats. In a city where law is deeply rooted in the Muslim belief system, unmarried pregnant women can face deportation, alcohol is sold only in hotels and eating and drinking in public is punishable during the month of Ramadan. It is this constant push and pull of conflicting desires which to me, defines Dubai.

Matt and I spend the morning touring the quaint, historic Bastakia Quarter built in the late 1800’s by Persian merchants. Located next to Dubai Creek, it shares little in common with the Trump-inspired tourist section of the city. Women in burkas stroll shaded alleyways, men in dishdashas with briefcases hail cabs while abras (small wooden ferry boats) plow through the water. We marvel at the wind towers, used as an early form of air conditioning on the tops of the buildings. At the nearby Bur Dubai Souq vendors haggle with customers, selling silk saris and custom-tailored suits. After a lovely lunch with Matt’s friend Olivia, we pop into Chandelier to engage in the local pastime of smoking sheesha. Choosing from a glorious menu of flavors (grape, apple, strawberry...) we inhale rose flavored sheesha through the top of a hubble bubble, watching the passersby from the outdoor cafe. Though we had hoped to see the interior of the Burj al Arab, the world's only 7-star hotel shaped like a sailboat (see pic) boasting 8,000 square meters of 22-carat gold leafing, they wanted a cool $60 per cocktail so we head instead for the chic confines of Bahri Bar overlooking the beach (and the Burj!). At only $12 a drink, this seems like a bargain in comparison. Sandboarding, wadi-bashing, camel racing and golf are popular here, activites merely adding to Dubai's cache as a year-round getaway for the rich and famous. Between adventure sports, white sand beaches, shopping and dining, Dubai pretty much has it all. But luxury and glamour doesn't come cheap: this is the place to come roll around on your Benjamins in a $3,000 a night suite. Since I'm no billionaire I'll be rolling on my Washingtons instead...or not...my wallet and I are still recovering from the cocktail bill - oh how I miss the $2 cans of brew in Costa Rica!

Mumbai & Elephanta Caves

2008-03-29T10:15:00.008-04:00

I didn’t see the monkey running towards me until one of the locals waved me away. “She’s got a baby with her” he said, and then in a voice designed to prevent me from being bitten on my vacation added “she’s growling, you know.” Aforementioned monkey then glared at me sullenly, as if on cue.

Matt and I had just taken an hour ferry ride from Mumbai to the island of Elephanta, a prehistoric Lord of the Flies locale perfect for dumping dead bodies under the cover of night or filming next year’s series of Survivor. In my mind’s eye I could actually see Piggy being murdered in just this spot. *Shiver* At any rate, we were here to see the Elephanta Caves, a UNESCO World Heritage Site boasting Hindu sculptures including a 16 foot high monument featuring Brahma the Creator, Vishnu the Preserver and Shiva the Destroyer. And yes, these 13th century caves are worth riding the herky-jerky toy train into the island’s foothills and then navigating the 130 steps. If you wish to avoid the climb, men will carry you in an enormous chair (sort of like a Jewish wedding except that the chair-holders aren't groomsmen who've been drinking all night, making this a safer bet) for the bargain price of $12.

After exploring Elephanta (carefully avoiding the food vendor’s “variety of seafood” kept cold on a quickly melting slab of ice), we jetted back across the harbor to Mumbai – eager for a bit of air conditioning and cold beer. Barely dodging an attack by a vicious eight-year old (who attempted to part Matt from his rupees) we hoofed it into the five star hotel, Taj Mahal Palace and Tower overlooking the harbor. Chic, slick, and swanky, the Taj is an oasis of calm in a city full of constant traffic, haggling salespeople and intense heat. Although Mumbai is an engaging city with a lot to offer it can be exhausting and we happily took refuge inside Masala Kraft, the hotel’s Indian restaurant, where we dined on olive chili and garlic naan, curried chicken, smoky lamb that fell right off the bone and crispy potato cakes.

Cochin, India

2008-03-27T06:22:00.007-04:00

“Sometimes when you shake your head ‘no’ from side to side, it actually means ‘yes’ in our culture” says our guide. “It depends on your facial expression.” Now he tells us. For the past two hours I have been smiling and wildly shaking my head “no” at aggressive street peddlers pushing their wares at me with a ferocity second only to that of a cartel of Columbian coke dealers. Ironically, the body language that was intended to deter these budding entrepreneurs from following me paparrazi-like through the streets has instead drawn them towards me in a frenzy resembling something like a circle of hungry sharks surrounding a wounded seal. And so it is here that I have my first lesson in cultural relativism.

Nonetheless, Cochin is a charming little city located on the Kerala coast. With a Portuguese church, Dutch palace, Chinese-style fishing nets and a Jewish Quarter it has retained much of its cultural gumbo, a direct result of its role as a seaport throughout history. We see them all – the Church of St. Francis where Vasco da Gama was originally buried, Mattancherry and Paradesi Synagogue whose floors are paved with hand painted Chinese tiles. We creep about the temple in our stocking feet as the 16th century tiles are too delicate to handle the wear and tear of shoes. Located on Jew Street in the Jewtown section of the city, our guide assures us that this naming isn’t meant in a derogatory way. But perhaps the most interesting sight is that of the muscled fishermen using a system of weighted levers and pulleys to operate the Chinese fishing nets and we watch in awe as they pull in a multitude of prawn, tigerfish and more.

Cochin has much to offer in the way of historical sights, but it also boasts some lovely resorts and cultural pursuits. At the Taj Malabar Hotel we gobble down an Indian feast – naan, lentils, palak paneer, curried veggies and cold Kingfisher beer under a tent on the great lawn, facing the sea. We kick back and watch Kathakali dancers perform, using only body and eye movements to convey their stories – a truly impressive group of actors sharing their traditions with us – what a lovely way to finish our afternoon in Cochin.

Mamallapuram, India

2008-03-25T06:31:00.004-04:00

Upon entering Mamallapuram, you are leaving behind the modern world. It takes us nearly two hours to make the 30 mile drive from the city of Chennai to this fishing village situated on the Bay of Bengal as driving is an exercise in frustration. Passing thatched huts and one-story houses, clouds of dust swirl into the air as honking buses dodge a series of barefoot pedestrians, rambling cows and skinny goats munching on roadside debris. Black flies flit in and out of the bus windows, undeterred by the heat. It is here that stone monuments from the 7th and 8th centuries sit beside tin-roofed stores and homes, a place where wide-eyed children run barefoot alongside tourists, making the international sign for food by placing their skinny hands to lips, their mothers verbally encouraging them from several yards away. A man walking on all fours begs for change near the monuments drawing little reaction from the locals. The abject poverty, lack of good sanitation and medical care is upsetting, and I wonder what the government is doing, if anything, for these people who geographically are so close to one of the largest cities in India, yet so removed from the opportunities and modernity just miles away. Yet there is still beauty here – the landscape is filled with women wearing sherbert colored saris – the lemon yellows, tangerine oranges and blue-tinged berry cottons and silks glimmering through the heat, their long black hair in braids. Men lounge about in lungis, selling leather sandals, carvings and small bongo drums, easily chatting with each other and the tourists that pass by. At Arjuna’s Penance, a stone panel measuring 90-feet in length, life-sized carvings of Arjuna and Krishna tower over those who have come to see these wonders. Pancha Rathas is perhaps even more impressive, with its enormous intricate temples and giant animals carved from single sandstone boulders. To be in the presence of art thousands of years old is to be humbled by your place in the world and staring at these models I feel as a grain of sand might on an enormous beach, an insignificant speck in the story of the world.

Singapore & Malaysia: A Study In Contrasts

2008-03-22T08:45:00.007-04:00

For the past few days we’ve been traveling throughout Singapore and Malaysia. The former is a modern city: tall office buildings, English street signs and vast shopping malls line carefully landscaped streets. Notorious for the Michael Fay caning, Singapore is serious about maintaining the peace – even small crimes like littering and jaywalking result in huge fines. But don’t let this get you down. It makes up for its Nazi-like attention to order with its cosmopolitan vibe boasting a diverse mix of Malays, Chinese, Indians (plus international tourists) that makes it as easy to find chilli crab as it is to find curry or dim sum. We popped into the famous Raffles, where the “Singapore Sling” originated. After polishing these fruity concoctions off in the hotel’s Long Bar I shamefacedly admit that we pursued the national Singaporean pastime of shopping hitting hard-to-find British stores like Topshop and Miss Selfridge. Feeling greedy and totally American we took a cab to Brewerkz, Singapore’s only microbrewery. With a vast beer list and a varied menu we cooled off in the air-conditioning with locals on their lunch break and drank until our consumerist shame was obliterated by a beer buzz.

Aside from the shared affinity for shopping malls, Singapore and Malaysia seem to have little else in common. Malaysia appears less solvent financially and even in Kuala Lumpur where Louis Vuitton stores rub shoulders with top hotels, there’s an obvious disparity in wealth. The Petronas Towers define this city skyline which until 2003 were the world’s tallest twin buildings standing at 1,483 feet. After viewing them and exploring the city we lunched at the Mandarin Oriental’s Lai Po Heen, a hip Cantonese spot featuring a glass-encased kitchen and city views. At only $35 for two people one thing’s for sure: even high-end spots are affordable in Malaysia, yet the city seems to lack that indefinable quality of "heart."

Meanwhile, the island of Penang offers a totally different travel experience – more exotic, more “real” feeling. Much of the colonial architecture still stands here and in contradiction to the skyscrapers of KL, Penang’s Chinese clan houses, Buddhist temples and 19th century structures crumble romantically along shaded side streets. Yet these historic and cultural jewels also come with the reality of less sophisticated dining options and hotel accommodations than are available in the big city. Pockets of severe poverty are evident – tenement houses missing doors and windows are strung with clotheslines and crowded, dirty streets are common sights. Bizarrely, there are 7-11’s everywhere (who would think?) so we brainfreezed ourselves while we wandered in the oppressive heat.

RECIPE FOR SINGAPORE SLING:

30ml gin
15ml Heering Cherry Liqueur
7.5ml D.O.M Benedictine
7.5ml Cointreau
120ml Pineapple juice
15ml fresh lime juice
10ml grenadine
dash of Angostura bitters
Garnish: maraschino cherry, pineapple chunk, and orange slice

Random Adventures in Ko Samui

2008-03-17T06:38:00.010-04:00

If your idea of a good time includes:

a) elephants playing harmonicas
b) a mummy monk
c) curry goodness
d) coconut-pickin’ monkeys
e) gorgeous beaches

Or any of the above…you’ll need to get to Ko Samui for your next vacation. Often called “the island of coconuts” since it produces over 3 million a month, Ko Samui utilizes monkeys to perform the brunt of this manual labor. We couldn’t pass up an opportunity to see monkeys at their day jobs and we found them hard at work...skittering up tree trunks and twisting coconuts with their tiny paws. I would imagine this is a pretty large profit margin for the humans since they don’t have to actually pay their employees and I don’t know about you, but I’m thinking the monkeys get a pretty raw deal. Does PETA know about this??? We also visited an elephant camp where these gentle giants played harmonicas with their trunks and dunked baskets better than Michael Jordan. I will refrain from commenting on the little “Thai Massage” trick they’ve taught them – better see it for yourself in the video below.

Wat Kunaram houses the mummified body of Loung Poh Deang, a Buddhist monk who passed away while meditating in the lotus position over 30 years ago. We visited the temple to view Deang’s body which was never embalmed but miraculously shows little sign of decay. The one exception is his eyes (which have been thoughtfully covered up with a pair of sunglasses to hide the exposed sockets) which makes Deang look the part of a hipster monk in a pair of Ray Bans and his saffron robe. Afterwards we drove north to the Big Buddha temple where I received a holy water blessing from one of the Buddhist monks.

Hungry from all the touring, Matt and I stopped in at the Nora Beach Resort for a Thai buffet full of curried duck, fried noodles, fresh fish and sticky rice with mango. Sitting at our seaside table we took in the aqua ocean and golden sand with a few Tiger beers and fell in love with the tiny beach bungalows (complete with outdoor rainhead showers). Although tempted to stay here and meet the ship somewhere in India we headed back to the ship amid promises to someday come back. Ko Samui is full of surprises – some good, some just…random, but the beaches are gorgeous and the exchange rate makes it affordable.

Bangkok's Royal Palace: Nicer Than White House

2008-03-15T10:41:00.008-04:00

The moment our cab driver bought us street food (fried bananas) through the window, we knew we were going to love it here. People are friendly, there’s tons of shopping, the palaces and temples are extremely beautiful and the exchange rate means you’ll be able to kick it in style. We hit the Grand Palace/Wat Phra Keo Complex first. With its zealous application of gild, mirror shards and mosaics on every possible surface these ornate 18th century buildings shimmered brighter than Harry Winston’s diamonds. Glittery spires shot up into the sky topped with ornate finials and the roofs fitted with wind chimes tinkled quietly in the breeze. We kneeled inside the temple in awe of the Emerald Buddha perched atop a gilded pedestal while devout Buddhists prayed and meditated silently on the floor.

Jonesing for some Thai food we popped into Sho Pratumtong, a 4-table local’s spot for some authentic Pad Thai and Ginger Chicken with Rice. Our entrees plus huge draft beers came to $12 – an amazing deal. Afterwards we strolled down the block to Wat Pho , Bangkok’s oldest and largest temple to see the Reclining Buddha, a 46 meter long gold plated structure whose feet are intricately inlaid with mother of pearl. Since we only had a few hours left we did some shopping across town, but my discovery of the day was the Jim Thompson Thai Silk Store. The men and women’s accessories, home furnishings and clothing here is reminiscent of an Asian inspired Michael Kors collection and although not cheap, certainly costs less than it would back home - certainly worth a stop if you're in Bangkok although they also have satellite stores around the world.

Ho Chi Minh City: Better Than A Sale At Barney's

2008-03-15T10:13:00.005-04:00

My advice on crossing the street here is to look both ways, cross your fingers and then run like hell since the adherence to traffic signals (are there any?) can make it a bit tough to get around. But this my friends, is a very small price to pay considering the uber-tasty Vietnamese food (sauteed crawfish in cream sauce, crispy spring roll triangles, fried noodles, oh my!), ancient Taoist temples, outdoor beer gardens and el-cheapo shopping.

Like my grandmother, I believe that there’s nothing better than the satisfaction of getting a good bargain and believe you me…if she were here to see Ho Chi Minh City, you can be guaranteed she’d be getting on a plane with her arms full. Shop windows full of silk dresses, bespoke suits and trendy home goods sell their merchandise for outrageously low prices. It’s not uncommon to see couture gowns priced at $100 while purses, ties and hand embroidered linen tablecloths clock in at $30 and under. Plus, in many places you can bargain them down from the original asking price – quite a thrill. When I win the lottery I’ll be back here to furnish my (currently non-existent) apartment with the modern Asian lamps at Mosaique. Until then, I’ll be content with my fabulous $22 bamboo tray bargain that looks like it might’ve come from the Barney’s Warehouse Sale.

Vietnam: Hue's Temples, Palaces & Rural Beauty

2008-03-12T08:47:00.008-04:00

My first impressions of Vietnam are of water buffalo lumbering through rice paddies, colorful street stalls and spirit houses smoking with the smell of incense. Motorbikes careen down highways releasing clouds of thick smoke and the sound of beeping horns in their wake. Driving here is an experiment in carefully contained chaos. On the side of these roads men struggle under the weight of wood balanced on their shoulders while women stand barefoot on the backs of water buffalo, wearing conical palm hats and searching for something in the horizon past the pandemonium occurring on the street below.

Down a winding maze of dirt roads we travel through the tiny rural villages, rice paddies and dilapidated shops around the city of Hue. Children wave from one-room schoolhouses with dirt floors; houses in the process of falling in on themselves seem to vibrate and buckle every time cars pass. Emperor Minh Mang’s Tomb is located in one such village and we stop to observe this 19th century Feng Shui masterpiece - carved dragons seem to hiss as they wend their way across the corners of the roofs here. Long pathways lined with baobab trees set off the imposing compound comprising of 40 buildings, lakes and bridges constructed by the Emperor's 100+ offspring.

Following the tomb we travel to a 17th century Buddhist pagoda (Heavenly Lady) built between the Perfume River and a pine forest. This seven-tiered pagoda leans a bit like the Tower of Pisa, its wedding cake layers representing all the human manifestations of Buddha. Monks chant sutras in the main temple while novices practice their calligraphy inside. One of the more moving exhibits is a national relic, the car in which Vietnamese monk Thich Quang Duc used to transport himself to Ho Chi Minh City on June 11, 1963 where he set himself on fire to protest the regime’s violations of religious freedom.

After a dragon boat ride down the Perfume River (where I somehow convince the driver using only hand gestures to let me steer) we dock at a waterside Vietnamese restaurant for lunch. Munching on fried pancakes with peanut sauce, white noodles with beef and spring rolls we’re in awe of this country, humbled by its ancient history and culture. Our last stop is to be the Imperial Citadel in Hue. Built in the early 1800’s by the first Nyguen Emperor, the Citadel is modeled on Beijing’s Forbidden City and features a breathtaking lotus pond and the Palace of Supreme Harmony. You can almost feel the ghosts walking the corridors here. Although many of the structures suffered destruction from U.S. bombing during the occupation of Vietnam, much of it still stands. Outside, rickshaws cruise down the road, motorcycles carrying groups of two’s and three’s zip by and market stalls are congested with the sounds and smells of produce, people and wandering dogs.

Come to Hue for the history and architecture but also know that part of the thrill is meeting the people, eating their food and seeing the way they live – it's an experience I won't soon forget.

Hong Kong:Crossroads of Ancient & Modern

2008-03-12T08:29:00.004-04:00

Hong Kong is constantly full of people run-walking towards destinations unknown. They do not bump into one another, they are polite and the public transportation is efficient and clean. This is a modern, humming city where towering apartment buildings crowd the sky and neon shops tumble down city blocks. The energy here is consumerist and frenetic. Yet there are parts of Hong Kong that depart from the flash and thrum of industrialized society completely. Jewel box-sized tea houses and ancient places of worship encourage the preservation of culture and tradition in the face of futuristic shopping mall complexes. With slick skyscrapers and salesy billboards soaring over temples from the 1800’s it is as if Hong Kong is constantly at a crossroads of old and new, young and old, history and possibility.

We spend the morning eating dim sum at Luk Yu Tea House, a local’s hangout in the Central District of Hong Kong. Nearly a century old, it’s crowded with women carrying trays of steaming dumplings in bamboo baskets, crispy spring rolls and juicy meatballs. Ceiling fans spin above us and the ambience of the outdated spittoons and Art Deco stained-glass windows makes it feel as though we’ve snuck into some sort of secret Hong Kong world of the past. We indulge in nearly all of the offerings, sipping jasmine tea while trying to not to drop dumplings into bowls of soy sauce with our chopsticks. I do this a few times, sending a group of gossiping old men into fits of hysterical laughter. Yet my mild humiliation is a small price to pay for the best Chinese food I’ve ever eaten and at $30.00 for two people it’s a real bargain, not to mention the atmosphere.

Matt and I decide to walk off our immense breakfast with a stroll down Hollywood Road searching for reasonably priced treasures on this street crowded with antique stores, inexpensive boutiques and curiosity shops laden with fun junk. Black sesame soap, hand-carved perfume bottles and bamboo salad tongs are just a few of the finds of the day. Further down the road sits the 19th century Man Mo temple, an ancient Taoist structure painted in vivid reds and greens. The inside is thick with smoke from rows of burning incense coils hanging in canopies above my head. I find myself thankful for this quiet, dark interior and watch as worshippers leave their offerings to the gods on altars crowded with oranges and candles. It is such a peaceful respite from the bustling energy outside that I find myself completely entranced by the sounds of the gong, bell and whispered prayer. Feeling as though I’ve traveled back in time I employ an elderly fortune teller outside to use his I Ching coins to tell me what he sees in my future; he assures me I’ll have a job quickly upon returning home from our travels.

That afternoon we pause all cultural pursuits for ice cold beers in Lan Kwai Fong, the hard-drinking party district. Copping seats outside the Hong Kong Brew House we down half liters of beer, soaking in the frat-party atmosphere of empty kegs that line the narrow streets. As 80’s music blares from the pubs and patrons start putting back what appears to be only the first in a long line of drinks we head out for more adventure, leaving the ex-pats to party on into the night.

A few hours later we find ourselves hopping the Star Ferry for a breezy cruise across Victoria Bay to eat Cantonese at Spring Moon. Crispy Peking duck and sautéed Waygu beef spoil us rotten and we know that eating Chinese take-out at home somehow won’t be the same after this. Waiters carve the duck tableside, wrapping the meat into lettuce cups and mini-wraps filled with hoisin sauce and crisp veggies. After dinner we take the elevator upstairs to The Peninsula’s trendiest restaurant, Felix to see its high concept design. It’s all towering glass walls, glamorous people and Hong Kong Swank with a decidedly contemporary flair. I feel like I’ve been swept into some elegant city aerie as we end the evening staring at the neon signs across Hong Kong’s bustling harbor from the 28th floor of this fabulous bar, sipping cocktails and enjoying the bird's eye view of this spectacular city.

Kota Kinabalu: If You Like Lonely Planet...

2008-03-07T05:50:00.006-05:00

Remember those tacky designer imposter perfumes? If you like Elizabeth Arden’s Sunflowers You’ll Love…Sun Showers, or whatever. I’ll admit they smelled like ass, but there was a certain marketing genius in the concept. Logic dictates that if for instance, you like Camaros you probably also like body building or cheap leather jackets. Which is why I now inuit that: if you like Lonely Planet guides you’ll love Kota Kinabalu.

We spent the day visiting the islands of Tunku Abdul Rahman National Park, a five island spread off the coast of Kota Kinabalu in Malaysia. On Mamutik Island we swam and sunbathed, pointedly ignoring the fact that the ocean had detritus muddying up its green water and that is was “jellyfish season." Youthful backpackers had set up camp in a tent, its dilapidated frame packed with bunks swarthed in dirty mosquito netting. Strung up on clotheslines outside were sweaty underpants and muddy rucksacks. Oh to be 21 again!!! I wondered if at their age I would’ve had the guts to book a vacation here and after witnessing the bathrooms (I mean…holes in the tile floor) I quickly realized that no, I was always more of a high thread count sheet kind of girl. I can rough it with the best of ‘em, but certainly not for grubby beaches and murky water – that I can get at Jones Beach, thank you very much.

That afternoon we not-so-sadly parted ways with Mamutik Island and headed to Pulau Gaya for a rainforest trek. In what felt like two hundred degree weather with 100% humidity we combated mosquitoes, attacking us the way Lindsay Lohan does an 8-ball in her suite at the Chateau Marmont. After slogging through miles of knee-deep mud I had the epiphany that Kota Kinabalu had been a letdown. But isn’t traveling about discovering what you do and don’t like? Well, now I know. Give me sunset in a garden in Provence with chilled white wine, the smell of lavender and a tuna nicoise salad– as of now, my days of backpacking are officially over.

Oenophiles & Foodies Take Note

2008-03-05T00:31:00.005-05:00

You might’ve noticed that my friend Brian is listed as a contributor on my blog. That’s because he’s been kind enough to hook a girl up on the techie side of things since he’s a bit of a Mensa-fied computer prodigy. I have to hand it to him, it does take a special je ne sais quoi to break into other peoples’ laptops and change all of their icons to porn-related stuff…not that I was ever a victim of this on Parent’s Weekend my Freshman Year of college BRIAN!!! Hmmph.

Fortunately for me, Brian’s moved on to more middle-aged pursuits and has become quite the epicure. Like everyone else in his life, I’m pinning these wonderfully evolved interests of his on the influence of his fabulous girlfriend Mickey.

So if you’re a fan of gourmet cooking, eating out or drinking wine you should check out Brian’s blog – Clinton Hill Foodie. This male Martha Stewart actually makes his own pasta from scratch while celebrities like Queer Eye’s Ted Allen stop by to post comments on his webpage and send him free things in the mail. (Editor’s Note: WTF? I want free things! Giant corporations – I am totally for sale! Send me your swag!) Show him some love and peep his website here.

Onboard Talent Show: Somewhere Dogs Howl, Mirrors Break

2008-03-04T01:20:00.005-05:00

Ah, the age old passenger talent show. If you raided a nursing home, plied the residents with cheap shots of tequila and then forced them onstage without the benefit of a single rehearsal you’ve got an idea as to what this onstage lunacy is all about. Dreadfully entertaining in a Catskills-at-Sea meets One Flew Over the Cuckoo’s Nest sort of a way. Wildly off-key singing and the reading of limericks are just the tip of the iceberg. The dramatic reading of limericks you say? As a talent? And yet, I’m afraid it’s true.

As such, my VIP award from the most recent Queen Victoria talent show goes to a man and his stuffed monkey doll for reasons that should be obvious. (See video below) However, never one to skimp on the praise of these burgeoning artistes I’d also like to include nods to the two runners-up who include:

1. A woman who has never taken a piano lesson in her life attempting to play The Man of La Mancha’s “The Impossible Dream” (a rather fitting title given the performance)

and

2. A gentleman performing a “comical” monologue about his life i.e. “One time I was this landlord and people were making love really loudly upstairs – I called ‘em up and told ‘em they had two choices – the first was to stop the loud love making, the second choice was that if they didn’t, I was going to sell tickets!!!”

Oh yes, hardy-har-har.

So for those of you planning a Cunard cruise anytime soon, break out that accordion you haven’t seen since high school band camp and start practicing – who knows, with competition like this you just may get discovered.

Queen Victoria's Jacuzzi: Cheaper Than a Happy Ending

2008-03-03T01:28:00.004-05:00

I envisioned enormous Olympic swimming pools where I’d spend afternoons doing laps when I first booked this cruise. It wasn’t crucial or anything, but I did go to the trouble of getting a pair of goggles. Sadly, this was never meant to be and my goggles are currently collecting dust in a drawer (minus the time I drunkenly danced around the cabin for fun in them). Anyhow, in the spirit of journalistic integrity it bears mentioning to you, the possible consumer that both swimming pools are kinda smallish. Obviously they’re large enough for a cooling dip, but they’re utterly unsuitable for exercise. And while the Jacuzzis are a pleasant experience a gal could get pregnant in one without even trying. 3 people at a time is probably the max (2 if you have personal space issues) when sitting with strangers, unless you’re all built like Mary-Kate Olsen.

As Will Ferrell says, “We should mention that although the waters above appear calm, below the surface there is a frenzy of activity.” At least this is what I could imagine easily happening, quite by accident with too many people, which is why I’ve only been in the Jacuzzis once. All that whining aside, the sundeck itself is a lovely place with its ample seating, towel and beverage service and a reggae band that plays at all the right times. Go at midday when it’s less crowded (read: everyone’s at lunch) and you’ll have the place to yourself. Just be prepared for more of a loungey scene where you can enjoy the golden glow of the sun, splash in for a quick dip and instantly repair back to the chaise lounge for an Apricot Stone Sour and some trashy magazine reading.

Apricot Stone Sour

1 oz. Apricot Brandy
1 oz. Sweet & Sour Mix
1 oz. Orange Juice (no pulp)

Shake all ingredients with ice, strain into a lowball glass & serve with orange slice

Cool Travel Accessory: Foldable Bikes

2008-03-02T03:59:00.005-05:00

If you’d love to bring your bike on a trip, but can’t figure out how to wheel it onto that Cessna - don’t despair. These new foldable bikes collapse into small carrying cases making them a cinch to pack. And when you’re finally ready to ride, all it takes is a few adjustments before you’re hitting the pavement and coasting through the countryside with the wind in your hair. They’re perfect for cruisers, jet setters or even folks hopping a train for a weekend getaway. Plus, if you live in a city abode with less than ample storage just slide these bikes under the bed. Another plus? These two-wheelers help cut down your dependence on gas, making them both eco and wallet friendly. ($399 Dahon Folding Bike available at L.L. Bean)

Great Barrier Reef: Not the Jersey Shore

2008-03-01T02:13:00.004-05:00

The Great Barrier Reef, located on the coast of Australia is like one pristine, sandy underwater garden after the next. Filled with sun dappled coral forests and clear water, the wave tips glitter like diamonds in the sun. Beneath the surface fish flit in silvery, metallic schools darting and weaving their way through the reef while translucent jellyfish bob gracefully in the slow rocking of the saltwater. Dive down below and the colors are as shocking as a Warhol print: witness the bright blue of Staghorn coral stretching its delicate branches up towards the sun while electric lime green pipefish and shimmery purple and teal parrotfish cruise lazily. Here you can float effortlessly while playful turtles paddle above your head, their silhouettes outlined in the sun. This is something you won’t forget – at least not in this lifetime, one of the many reasons it was proclaimed a World Heritage site in 1981 and chosen by CNN as one of the 7 Natural Wonders of the World.

Details: We took Quicksilver Cruises from Port Douglas out to the GBR. It’s an hour in a huge air-conditioned catamaran, the staff looks like an Australian version of Baywatch and snacks & beverages are offered onboard for a nominal fee. Upon arrival we docked at a pontoon on the outer edges of the Agincourt reef, a prime piece of underwater real estate where you’re guaranteed to see at least a dozen varieties of fish (if not more) and coral formations bigger than human beings. Turtles, sharks, jellyfish and other animals sometimes make an appearance if you’re lucky – and don’t freak, the sharks that come out aren’t dangerous so give up on the Open Waters paranoia already. Scuba diving, helicopter rides, snorkeling, helmet walks, and semi-submersible boat rides are all available on-site and a fab buffet lunch is included. Did I mention free beer and wine on the way back to shore? An ideal way to end a day diving in the reef…bottoms up!

A Dingo Ate My Baby

2008-02-27T01:51:00.005-05:00

If you’ve ever had the urge to cuddle a koala bear, hand-feed hopping kangaroos or watch sheep dogs at work – you absolutely must visit the Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary located on the outskirts of Brisbane, Australia’s third largest city. It’s a fun place for kids or adults and where else on earth can you interact so closely with native Australian wildlife? For only $20 a person you can hold an actual koala (mine was an adult male named Fitzroy) and have a professional picture taken with him. Fitz was pretty keen on chewing my hair as well as the eucalyptus leaves, but I forgave him since he was so damned cute.

There’s also tons of animals here you’d never see in an American zoo: Tasmanian devils, wombats and naturally, dingoes. I spent a good five minutes waiting for a zookeeper to come by so I could use my best Australian accent to tell him that “a dingo ate my baby” but sadly, it was raining and the zookeepers (like the dingoes) had taken to hiding where it was dry. In case you’ve never seen it that quote’s from Meryl Streep’s A Cry In the Dark – a fine piece of cinema based on the true story of an Australian mother accused of murder when her child is stolen by dingoes on a camping trip. So on that note, a list of my favorite Australia and New Zealand based movies:

10. The Adventures of Priscilla, Queen of the Desert

9. Muriel's Wedding

8. Crocodile Dundee

7. Gallipolli

6. The Piano

5. Whale Rider

4. The Thorn Birds

3. Walkabout (1971)

2. Jindabyne

1. Rabbit-Proof Fence

Sydney: Like NYC Without Crap, Snow

2008-02-24T23:45:00.008-05:00

Sexy, scantily-clad citizens and expensive outdoor cafes glisten in the sun as we arrive in Sydney, Australia. This is a glamorous city boasting hundreds of Asian fusion restaurants, towering skyscrapers and an iconic opera house perched on its harborfront. The locals are open, friendly and thoroughly unpretentious - a surprising fact given how closely they all resemble Kate Hudson and Matthew McConaughey. If New York City was surrounded by gorgeous beaches, had better weather and less severe workweeks it might have a chance at being as beautiful as Sydney. Maybe.

Matt and I spent our first day here risking life and limb on the Sydney Harbor Bridge Climb. For reasons that are still unclear to me, the government here actually allows people to harness themselves onto a small wire for $199 and ascend hundreds of feet into the air by clambering on the top of their famous bridge. It’s a great introduction to the city since you get a real feel for the lay of the land as you precariously balance on steel girders and try not to let the aerial view totally freak you out.

The rest of the afternoon was spent exploring the swanky suburb of Paddington, an adorable section of Sydney packed to the gills with Beautiful People, Victorian row houses, tiny boutiques and quaint pubs. Each Saturday the Paddington Markets open to the public – this outdoor gathering of designers hawk their cutting-edge jewelry, clothing, and chic housewares to locals and tourists alike. The quality of the merchandise was impressive but the thrill of the day was discovering Dinosaur Designs , a shop that sells an impressive selection of unique jewelry and tableware made from resin and handblown glass.

Later that evening Matt and I dressed up and went bar hopping, hitting the neighborhoods of King’s Cross, Darlinghurst and the Rocks. There were more bars than I can count (or various sugarcane cocktails than I can remember) but the highlights were The Victoria Room (think bordello meets The West Indies as far as décor is concerned) whose drink list was about 100 pages long and whose settees appeared to be real antiques. Also at the top of our list was Minus 5, a bar created entirely of ice that looked like something out of a James Bond movie. Here we donned parkas, boots and gloves and sipped vodka cocktails out of enormous ice mugs while lounging on ice couches covered in faux-fur throws. After that…it’s a blur.

As you can imagine, the next morning we were too tired (and too scary looking) to do much else but don the sunglasses and retire to Bondi Beach for some R&R. Watching the surfers through glazed eyes we recovered enough strength to stroll down the street to Iceberg’s for lunch – a private club that houses two restaurants and an outdoor swimming pool connected to the ocean. American celebrities are rumored to have eaten here and although we didn’t spy any stars while we were lunching, the restaurant’s vast glass windows looking out upon the sea were enough to entice a large group of non-celebs to wait outside in line for an open table. Before we parted ways with Sydney for good we hit the opera house, a stunning piece of architecture overlooking the harbor and nibbled at some decadent artisinal ice cream while walking along the ocean. By far our favorite place we’ve ever visited we’re now looking for jobs here…or at least ones that will afford us the vacation time to come back to Sydney. And for your pleasure, a bit of Bondi Beach...

Australia: Wine Tasting in the Yarra Valley

2008-02-21T23:16:00.002-05:00

The Yarra Valley, only an hour outside of Melbourne, boasts vistas of grapevines marching in rows upon rows followed in the distance by towering mountains, a hazy brown on the horizon. We are in the country – kangaroo crossing signs, wombat crossing signs and farmhouses dot the landscape. The weather is breezy, 70’s, sunny at this time of year and a perfect day for exploring the heart of one of Australia’s famous wine growing regions. To introduce us properly to the Yarra Valley, we hired Paul Robinson with Link Tours who led us on a four vineyard adventure: Kellybrook, Yering Station, Domaine Chandon and De Bortoli. Paul’s burgeoning knowledge and passion for Australian wine proved to be a huge advantage and his personal connections with local winemakers gave us VIP access to people and places we normally wouldn’t have been permitted on our own.

First stop of the day was Kellybrook Winery. This place has heart – it’s a small family vineyard that still hand picks their grapes. With a quaint restaurant using local produce and herbs from their garden outside, a shady French petanque court (where people take glasses of wine to linger on beautiful afternoons) and a tasting room that opens to the outdoors, you get a real feel for what the Yarra Valley is all about. Darren Kelly, one of two winemakers, was kind enough to walk us through the wine making and distillation processes (as they also make apple brandy here). After tasting nearly everything they had to offer, it’s evident that Kellybrook boasts a huge variety of eminently quaffable wines, but my favorite had to be the 2004 Chardonnay ($24) rated 93 points by James Halliday, the Australian wine authority. Stop here to really learn about wine from the winemakers themselves and to enjoy the feel of a European garden on a gorgeous day – there are no huge tour buses or impersonal experiences here – just an authenticity and Australian friendliness that sets it apart from some of the other vineyards in the region.

Next up was Yering Station, with its expensive manicured grounds and chic modern architecture. This is one of the most famous and impressive Yarra Valley vineyards and for good reason – their wines are sophisticated and delicious. The food at their spectacular restaurant (with floor to ceiling windows giving unparalleled views of the countryside) is to die for and considered the best in the area. While dining on barramundi and duck with glasses of wine, someone landed a helicopter on the property – apparently a big shot was flying in for lunch. And yet, the price list here is accessible. The Yering Station Cabernet Sauvignon ($24) was deep red, tasting of currant and chocolate is delightful now but should also cellar well until 2016.

After lunch we popped over to Domaine Chandon for some bubbly and weren’t disappointed by the wine (although the tasting room is gorgeous and looks out over the vineyards, it’s a bit loud and impersonal). My favorite was a Sparkling Pinot Shiraz (yes, sparkling!) which I’ve never seen before in the States – it’s the perfect thing for an outdoor bbq or to serve with some roasted lamb. It’s not too sweet and I’m looking forward to popping a few bottles of this exotic wine when I get home.

Our final stop was at De Bortoli, where we indulged in some wine and freshly made cheeses. Their Yarra Valley Estate Shiraz Viognier ($35) was silky and tasted of berries and pepper – I loved the flavor and was excited to try a blend I’d never experienced before. However, De Bortoli is perhaps best known for their Noble One ($58), a dessert wine made from Semillion that tastes of apricots and vanilla oak. It’s regarded in Australia as one of the country’s top dessert wines and it certainly didn’t disappoint. Their freshly made cheeses are also incredible – we took away a creamy blue called Saint-Agur and some goat cheese in olive oil and herbs to refrigerate in our cabin for an afternoon snack.

The day ended with a fabulous fireworks display in Melbourne Harbor. We sipped cocktails on deck as the colorful explosions illuminated the sea and night sky as we sailed towards Sydney – if only we had a few more days here – this is one place we’d definitely love to come back.

Details: If you love Australian wines, are planning on traveling here, or just want to know more I’d suggest picking up a copy of James Halliday’s Australian Wine Companion. Paul Robinson from Link Tours is an incredible guide and resource – if you’re thinking of touring the Yarra Wine Region he comes most highly recommended. Our day simply wouldn’t have been the same without him.

New Zealand: Wellington

2008-02-18T22:07:00.008-05:00

Wellington is New Zealand’s capital and certainly the most “bustling” of the three cities we visited. But in my opinion it lacks charm. For all of the Starbucks, bagel shops, and bookstores it could be almost anywhere in America – even the teenagers dress the same – wearing their leggings and skinny tapered jeans with flats. The only exception is that sadly, the magazines at the Borders in Wellington cost $20 a piece, rather than the $4.50 back home. So it was with great displeasure that I sulkily put back the Australian issue of InStyle with Kathryn Heigl on the cover and decided to go spend my twenty friggin dollars on four pints of beer, vowing to catch up on my celebrity gossip online. Twenty dollars…the nerve!!! And at this price, how do people afford to stay literate in New Zealand? Even the paperback books were $25!!! Note to NZ visitors: bring plenty of reading material with you on the plane.

Aside from my bookstore price disgust, Wellington turned out to be a pleasant and clean (if slightly boring) city. We popped into several taverns and sampled the beer, ordered local fare (beware: potato skins here are actually potato chunks thrown into a bowl with a lump of sour cream on top, you eat them with skewers…totally bizarre) and shopped at mini-marts for food and drinks we couldn’t buy back on the ship. Our favorite pub was General Practioner, a bar housed in an old-fashioned Victorian home with marble-topped tables and ultra-modern aluminum stools outside on the front deck. Here we sipped glasses of Monteith’s beer (try the black – it’s dark, but not heavy) and watched the twentysomethings pass by on the street below. The boutiques are cool in that Brooklyn-esque sort of a way with funky t-shirts and belts made out of vintage scarves for sale. Oddly, there were quite a few Christian bookstores selling God-related memorabilia with decals in the window posing questions such as “Got God?” or “Where will you be spending Eternity: In the smoking or non-smoking section?” Very clever, those New Zealanders. And to add to my confusion, just down the street were a number of sex shops. (Although out of respect for it being Sunday – or perhaps a lack of business on a church going day – they were all closed). One of their signs advertised “quality” sex gear…which made me wonder…are there a lot of people running around Wellington selling cut-rate vibrators? It’s a question worth asking.

All in all, Wellington is a nice city, but I think New Zealand’s real charm lays in its gorgeous countryside, small towns and bevy of thrilling adventure activities. Come to this country to stay at a fabulous B&B near a lake, to eat roast lamb, to paraglide, sea kayak or to wine taste…but if you’re looking for Manolo Blahniks, martini bars and big city nightlife, keep on movin. Wellington just can't compete with Tokyo, London or Milan.

New Zealand: Napier & Hawke's Bay

2008-02-18T21:51:00.006-05:00

I’ve been completely addicted to New Zealand’s crisp Sauvignon Blancs, especially during the warmer weather months. So when I discovered that my husband and I would be traveling to New Zealand on our honeymoon I was ecstatic. Fresh, herbaceous white wines at an affordable price? A chance to tour the vineyards I’d read so much about? Nirvana. And then my heart sank when I realized we wouldn’t be stopping on the South Island at all, which is home to Marlborough, the country’s most famous regional producer of Sauvignon Blanc. Merde.

Yet all was not lost, as serendipitously, this is how I came to discover Hawke’s Bay, one of the most exciting wine producing regions on New Zealand’s North Island. Located just outside the gorgeous coastal city of Napier, Hawke’s Bay boasts over thirty wineries and offers up miles of bucolic countryside in which to sip and savor some of the country’s best vino. As an added attraction, this region is incredibly accessible to aspiring oenophiles in both price range and attitude. The lack of pretension among friendly vineyard staff and a favorable exchange rate makes purchasing wine here a pleasure, and is happily unintimidating even to beginners. One important fact to know before you go: they don’t exactly skimp on the “tastes.” In fact, they’re more like giant half glasses of wine. So if you insist on pedaling a bicycle (driving a car is completely out of the question) consider yourself forewarned, invest in a helmet and make use of the free crackers. We hired a professional to introduce us to the wines, culture and landmarks of Hawke’s Bay. Our five vineyard adventure included Matariki, Hatton Estate, Craggy Range, TeMata and Vidal. Given the difference in climate between Hawke’s Bay and Marlborough, the type of varietals grown on the two islands differs remarkably (although there is some overlap). Be prepared to be blown away by the dynamic reds, something New Zealand is not particularly known for, at least in the American market.

Tasting Notes:

Matariki 2004 Pinot Noir: A Gold Winner at the 2007 London International Wine Challenge, this was one of my favorites. Velvety, not too jammy and with just the right amount of earthiness, this $24 bottle tastes better than many of the more expensive bottles I’ve sampled from Washington and Oregon.

Craggy Range Gimblett Gravels Sofia: A Merlot/Cabernet Franc blend, this $40 wine was so delicious that Rod Stewart’s managers had purchased several cases earlier that day to take back to the rock star himself. Although it’s not as much of a bargain as some of the others listed it’s a lovely wine to bring out to dinner and hey, if it’s good enough for Rod Stewart….

TeMata Chardonnay: Surprisingly subtle with none of that overpowering oakiness so often found in California Chardonnays and for $18, this would be a great accompaniment to a light, fresh summer dinner of seafood or salad. Exceptionally well-balanced, especially given the price point.

Vidal Sauvignon Blanc: Delicious passion fruit finish and at $14 a pop we bought more than a few bottles to squirrel away for casual Friday nights or summer brunches. Since it was fruity (but not overly so) this wine would even be great for a cocktail party or get-together with the girls.

Hatton Estate 2002 Tahi: This meritage of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc offered a depth of flavor rarely seen in wines this cheap and reminded me of some of my favorite bottles of Bordeaux that are twice as expensive. Clocking in at $36 a bottle it’s within the realm of affordability yet would be perfect to serve at an intimate dinner party in the fall or to give as a hostess gift to someone who enjoys heavier reds.

Details

Stay:
The Masters Lodge – Owned by a friendly American couple, this hotel offers the ultimate in romance, luxury and privacy. Comprised of only two suites and set on a hill overlooking the South Pacific Ocean, your hosts can arrange activities like master cooking classes, private dinners with local winemakers and massages in the solarium. Prices begin at $800 per/suite.

Dine:
Pacifica Kaimoana Restaurant – With a five course tasting menu and wine pairing option, this restaurant is the showpiece of Napier’s fine dining scene and consistently delivers fresh seafood and innovative cooking to its patrons.

Wine Tours:
Grape Escape – The charming Greg Beachen will pick you up and whisk you off on a specialized tour of Hawke’s Bay or New Zealand depending on your interests and preferred price range. Tours range in length from a casual afternoon jaunt to an in-depth twelve day wine trail. Prices start at about $60 and end at close to $8,000 per/person for a trip of almost two weeks in length.

New Zealand: The Waitomo Caves

2008-02-18T21:24:00.004-05:00

Located deep in the heart of New Zealand’s North Island, miles of pastoral bliss pass you by as you travel your way through the twisting country roads – grassy knolls, placidly munching sheep and big, blue sky. This scene repeats itself over and over again, grass/sheep/sky…grass/sheep/sky…grass/sheep/sky like some bucolic version of an M.C. Escher tessellation come to life.

Out here you will find the Waitomo Caves, a three hour drive from Auckland and famous for its system of underground rivers and glow worm grotto. The caves boast a natural auditorium nicknamed “the Cathedral” whose ceiling height soars hundreds of feet above the ground, the acoustics so perfect that the legendary Vienna Boys Choir has performed here amidst the thousand year old stalactites and stalagmites, their voices reverberating against the cavern walls. However, the real piece de resistance is the glow worm grotto itself, available only to those who will travel by boat or tube through the wending underground river system to the innermost recesses of the cave. Here there is no light save for that of the blue-green twinkle of the glow worms hanging up above – appearing like billions of tiny stars in a night sky. To glide through the water with your head back, staring at this constellation of sparkling creatures in silence is something that should not be missed, especially if you are already on the North Island.

Details: Caves are open daily, 9-5 every day of the year. Sadly, no photography or video is allowed inside the caves as it disturbs the glow worms, but it’s such a magical experience that it would be difficult to forget. Most people choose to stay in Auckland and make the caves a day trip as there’s not much else to do out here; however for those who’d prefer to stay overnight in the area there are a few options: for something on the swankier side there's the Waitomo Caves Hotel or for those on a tight budget there's a local Hostel. For a fun, cheap camping option check out Wicked Campers which are great for road trips around the country. You can also rent them in Australia as well. If you have children, a quick stop at the nearby Otorohanga Kiwi House, a native bird zoo featuring over twenty New Zealand species along with exhibits on local vegetation would make a lovely side trip.

Fiji: Just Like the Corona Commercial

2008-02-13T04:32:00.003-05:00

You know that beer commercial where all you can see is peoples’ bare feet as they stare out at the gently rippling waves? The one where the only sound you can hear is the ebb and flow of the ocean? Well people, this is Fiji. So if you’re a beach lover or you’re just trying to escape your annoying co-workers/family/crazy Aunt Edie then pack your suit and towel and get the hell out here already. Everything has been painted with unabashed strokes of vivid watery turquoise and golden sandy yellow, the blues of sea and sky blending indistinguishably into one another at the horizon line, little bits of cotton candy cloud puffs drifting languidly over the sea. The ocean is as calm and clear as a swimming pool, so much so that you can see tropical fish for what appears to be miles. Reggae music from the Cocktail soundtrack plays loudly in the afternoons, these happy island melodies spilling out of the remote, beach-side bars filled with tanned tourists drinking cheap, cold Fijian beers. Swimsuits and bare feet are happily encouraged at the bars packed with a combination of half-dressed co-eds and families, the waiters here claim that Fiji is a good place “to get lucky” if you’re single and handsome, shirtless men are dispensed to carry umbrellas and chairs down to the tourists lazing about on the beach. I feel as if I’ve stumbled into some sort of a preppy 80’s time warp – like an island party at a Princeton eating club, where UB40 is still popular and where men wear Docksiders without socks and madras blazers in a totally serious, un-ironic way. Perhaps it is because of this that I half-expect Huey Lewis to turn up at any moment, driving that golf cart from the “Happy to Be Stuck With You” video, showing up just in time to join Matt and I for a beer at “The Sand Bar” (oh yes, what a clever name) at any moment. Alas, Huey is nowhere to be seen and I give up waiting for him – but there are a few young men wearing Ray Bans and polo shirts (collars up, natch) who could pass for his sons, and the WASPY girl in the corner is wearing nothing but a bikini and pearls. Because honestly, the necklace just makes the outfit.
All in all, Fiji is a sun worshipper’s paradise. But a simple warning – this island is all about forced relaxation. If you’re one of the many (I know I am) who obsessively talks on the cell phone, likes late nights out and plenty of diversions in the cultural/shopping/adventure categories when traveling abroad then Fiji may not be for you. It is, well, isolated. It being a collection of tiny islands and all. So come here to read a book on the beach or to relax in a gorgeous place where there’s no cell phone service. But don’t come looking for South Beach – it isn’t here – just the sound of the waves gently lapping at your feet and cold, cold beer.

American Samoa: A Taste of Polynesian Culture

2008-02-11T01:40:00.000-05:00

To say the Samoa islands are remote would be a vast understatement. Roughly 2,600 miles from Hawaii and nearly 1,000 to Fiji, this region was not only home to Robert Louis Stevenson, the king of castaway literature, but also home to a culture so isolated and intact that Margaret Mead conducted some of her most controversial anthropological research here. For the five days we’ve been traveling here from Hawaii neither ship nor land has been sighted, satellite TV service has been virtually nonexistent, and one can see only a mirror-like ocean for miles, this glassy sheet of lapis lazuli seemingly stretching out into infinity. It is as if our ship has floated off the map and into the great beyond.

So it is with great fondness that we approach the island of Tutuila, the largest and most populated of American Samoa’s five extinct volcanic islands, home to nearly 65,000 people. Upon first glance Tutuila is like something out of a childrens’ fairy tale – Polynesian music floats through the air, coral reefs fringe the sandy shoreline, and tree covered mountains jut sharply into the cloudless sky. At dawn the sun seems to rise out of the sea and settle her golden rays on coconut palms, air plants, mossy banks and papaya trees.

Matt and I were lucky enough to be introduced to the island by an outgoing and poised group of local high school students who narrated our journey in a mix of English peppered with bits of Samoan. Appropriately enough we boarded our brightly colored school bus for a pleasant, if rickety ride around the island, culminating in a final invitation to our guide’s village for a traditional Samoan meal and dancing. Here we learned how most Samoans use umus, or ground ovens to cook their food and we ate off of small plates woven from palm fronds as the villagers do. An overflowing feast of baked breadfruit dipped in coconut milk (the Samoan’s answer to chips and dip), spinach sprinkled with coconut meat (straight from the tree – one of the men climbed what appeared to be a 100 foot palm), ice cold Vailima Lagers and fresh roasted chicken was set out on picnic tables and we happily ate while chatting away the afternoon with our new friends.

Life does not appear to be easy here. Subsistence farming is a means of survival for many, families sleep together on the floors of their humble one-bedroom homes and professional employment opportunities are few. Evangelical Christian churches seem to outnumber people, their imposing presence and sheer multitude a testament to the fact that religion is a comfort to the many people who struggle beneath what I would imagine at times, is the weight of a very difficult existence.

Yet even with these challenges, the Samoan people appear to be far from unhappy. The laughter and love that I witnessed between families and loved ones completely dispelled this notion. Their friendliness is unparalleled - welcoming strangers into their villages and homes is something that they pride themselves on, so much so that the National Park Service will assist visitors in setting up a stay with a Samoan family in advance of traveling here. Spending the afternoon with these people so generous in spirit made me ashamed of myself, for all of the times I had wished for silly, foolish things I didn’t need, and to see people so thankful for the simple joys in life – to witness people gracious enough to invite complete strangers into their homes to share with them their food, their culture, their way of life – it impressed me beyond belief. They truly possess a richness of spirit, something so uncommon in today’s world.

However, make no mistake: these islands are for true adventurers and castaways only. Don’t come expecting five-star resorts, or even frankly, air-conditioning. Come with an open mind and a sense of discovery…this is a place where you can lay on the sand beneath the stars and literally, not see a soul.

Hawaii's Natural Splendor

2008-02-06T18:22:00.001-05:00

There’s a reason Oprah has a vacation house here. I should’ve realized that the All-Knowing-She would never lead me astray. But here’s my guilty admission (sorry Oprah!) – that before actually setting foot in Hawaii, I mistakenly imagined America’s 50th state to be a cesspool - albeit one full of Sandal’s resorts (kill me now), beaches full of screaming, white middle-class children (whose parents aren’t conversant with the word “no”), and corporate-sponsored luaus (where married sales directors might wear plastic leis and simultaneously gawk at the hula dancers while “talking numbers” with the boys). So in other words: my personal idea of Hell.

Yet Oahu, Hawaii’s most populated island is nothing like this...instead it's all wide boulevards, well-trimmed green grass, and coconut trees. There are high end stores – Bulgari, Prada, and Ferragamo with mannequins in the windows dressed to kill. Dozens of affordable sushi restaurants, well-stocked convenience stores, and breezy sit down cafes where one can repair with a Mai Tai to a shaded corner line the side streets. Although these conveniences are certainly nice, they're amenities one can find in most large cities - and to me, Oahu’s real attractions are those of the natural variety. Its rainforests, volcanoes, waterfalls, surfable waves, and the cultural history of its people - these wonders are stunning both in their splendor and sheer enormity.

We spent the morning hiking near the Ko’olau volcano range on the windward side of the island, about a half-hour’s drive from downtown Waikiki. Climbing the steep trails was fun in that sort of a “hey if I don’t die this is going to be a really, really awesome experience” type of a way since the recent rains had reduced the paths to slick, muddy ski slopes with nary a railing or guard in sight. At points, the switchbacks up and down the mountain were treacherous, the corners crumbly and I could nearly hear the inaudible gasps as people clung onto vines, trees and anything that might help them keep their balance as we all gingerly navigated hairpin turns and silently contemplated who would get our cd collections should anything go awry. Yet it was all worth it upon reaching the falls…the thrill of standing beneath a wildly rushing curtain of water, of looking out at the horizon and down at the rainforest below, and of having trekked to a part of the mountain where wild boars, orchids and a panoply of birds chattered in the rainy mist – these are things that are worth returning back to the ship with muddy legs for, nevermind the insect bites and dreadlocks created by the use of Off! insect repellent in my hair.

After successfully navigating this four hour hike we rewarded ourselves with some Japanese food in downtown Waikiki and popped into The Royal Hawaiian Resort, colored in a Strawberry Shortcake-pink-and-white decorating scheme. Their Mai Tai Bar sits directly on the beach so from the cover of our umbrella we lazily gazed at surfers and sunbathers while sipping the Royal Pineapple daiquiri (served in the fruit itself), frozen Rose Cosmos, and naturally the Mai Tai. This vista, accompanied by the relaxing strains of live Hawaiian music and hula dancing, was perfect in that hazy summer afternoon kind of a way, and we ended the day with a few local beers before being forced to re-board the ship. The Kona Big Wave and Longboard brews were light and tasty, but the Mehana Volcano Red Ale was by far the best with its hoppy, slightly bitter finish.

No amount of snootiness from those who say Hawaii is “too” accessible can take away its charm – it really is an island that has something for everyone. Yes it's still American, but it feels more international than that. Plus - that beach, those frozen drinks, the vistas and the adventure – Hawaii rightly deserves all of its accolades. For a couple or a family looking to get away, it offers boundless options. Where else can you climb volcanoes, play a round of golf on a top course, swim in a waterfall and get pampered at a four star resort? Oprah, I stand corrected. Now if only her cute interior designer Nate Berkus would come and decorate my place….

L.A. - Expensive, Beautiful, Bitchy

2008-02-01T18:20:00.000-05:00

For those of you from the East coast, it bears mentioning that Los Angeles is absolutely nothing like Manhattan. It’s beautiful, clean, and full of people who look like they’re trying to look like they’re not trying too hard but really are - if that makes sense. Due to time constraints I’ll admit that we really only saw Beverly Hills and Hollywood rather than South Central but still…I’m pretty sure most of the folks we passed were models or actors or European royalty that had been Botoxed within an inch of their lives. *Sigh* You know, people living the good life.

This overpopulation of gorgeous rich people perhaps explains why when we visited the Versace store on Rodeo Drive we had a very Julia Roberts/Pretty Woman experience complete with frosty saleslady following us around and yelling at us for taking pictures in the store. Ooops. The only difference between Pretty Woman and our lives is that we left with our tales between our legs instead of coming back with Richard Gere and throwing wads of cash at the bitches. But whatever. Nevertheless, this small snafu did not prevent us from peeking into the windows of more luxury shops or from using the (free!) ginormous marble bathrooms in the Regent Beverly Wilshire. BTW, the handicapped stall in the women’s bathroom is definitely bigger than my bedroom was in Manhattan. (Editor’s Note: If you happen to be on Rodeo Drive and need to use the facilities (or are just really bored) definitely check these out – they even have Molton Brown hand soap…lovely! Personally, I like to know where all the good bathrooms in town are because you never know when that nonfat soy latte might take take a turn for the worse. On a side note, if you’re in NYC, the bathroom at the Pottery Barn in SoHo on the lower level is equally as clean, although far from luxurious.)

Besides window shopping in Beverly Hills, we absolutely had to do the tourist thing and so for $5.00 we bought a map of the stars’ homes and drove around the city with our friend Danny. We insisted on taking pictures outside all of the big celebrities’ houses, but unfortunately in most of the pictures all you can see is a gate. Elitist bastards. I guess people like Madonna (see picture of Danny w/map) got tired of people like us taking pictures outside their homes…I can’t imagine why…

For lunch we headed over to West Hollywood and cruised into one of my new favorite dives. It’s called the Saddle Ranch Chop House and presides over Sunset Boulevard with a woodsy, saloon-like exterior complete with balconies full of busted mannequins dressed up as Old West prostitutes and cowboys. Need I say more? The food is cheap and tasty and the portions are big enough to satisfy Jared pre-Subway diet. Plus, for under $50 you can order a 3.5 liter “Tower of Beer” or giant martini glasses full of cotton candy. All this and they’ve got a mechanical bull. Sadly for us the bull was broken while we were there, but we were given 2 free shots each on the house (woohoo!) in something the size of a juice glass, and frankly I can’t say enough good things about the service. My husband is still talking about the candied yams served with marshmallows in a cast iron skillet.

Following lunch we walked next door to Carney’s Hamburgers and Hotdogs - a tiny little restaurant set up inside an old train car. Their motto “Probably the World’s Best Hamburgers and Hotdogs” was not put to the test as we didn’t eat, but their food looked greasily delicious and there was a line (always a good sign) of locals waiting to be served. We took one of the picnic tables outside the train car, ordered a few beers and watched the parade of people traipse down Sunset as the afternoon wore on. All in all a beautiful day in a beautiful town.

Mexico - Good Tacos, Hot as Hell

2008-01-29T12:49:00.001-05:00

If you imagine what the inner circle of hell in Dante’s Inferno would feel like and then raise the temperature by a few thousand degrees, you will have some idea of what the weather was like the day we docked in Acapulco. The city itself seems to be one of contradictions – the old part is hot and dusty, filled with ramshackle homes, ancient VW Bugs masquerading as taxis, and tiny hole-in-the-wall restaurants run by tired looking elderly women. It is as if a 21st century Mexican version of a Charles Dickens novel has come to life complete with crowds of shoeless children looking for spare change, packs of skinny dogs trotting through the streets, and clouds of dirt rising into the air at the smallest provocation. I half expected to see Oliver Twist standing on a corner. Although there seems to be little excess of money in this section of the city, laughter echoes down narrow streets and amiable smiles are exchanged with strangers. The folks are welcoming and easy going, and family seems to be incredibly important. It is not uncommon to see three or even four generations sitting around a table sharing a meal together. Yet when Matt and I leave the old part of town to make the drive up into the hills the scenery changes, these two areas of the city are as separate as night and day.

Here on the hill there is no one, people remain hidden behind towering fences. It is a ghost town full of quiet cooling breezes, infinity pools, and sprawling 28-room estates offering no clue as to who the owners might be other than the printed names of their properties displayed prominently on expensive garage gates. Literally and metaphorically these McMansions are far removed from the voices of the street children, from the thrum of traffic, the smell of the taquerias, and the general chaos of daily existence down below. This fiesta of noise, smell and sound so present in the old section of the city is suddenly reduced to a mere bunch of tiny, silent specks from this vantage point up on top of the hill. This is a point not lost on me and silently I contemplate how the juxtaposition of extreme poverty and unimaginable wealth seems to be a global problem and wonder what can possibly be done to help.

While in Acapulco we tour Los Flamingos, a famous hotel formerly owned by John Wayne that once attracted the Hollywood elite – Cary Grant, Errol Flynn, Gregory Peck and dozens of other oldie goldies who vacationed here in the 50’s and 60’s. Yet it appears that nothing much in the way of renovation has been done since the hotel’s rise to prominence a half century ago, and as such it has retained its decidedly unironic campy décor, hot pink paint job and Jetsons-esque architecture. In other words: it’s Jonathan Adler kitsch meets trannys gone wild, but for $75 a night it’s not such a bad deal. Set against a breathtaking vista of sea and sky, with hammocks strung out in front of each room I briefly consider how romantic it might be to live here for a month doing nothing but reading and swimming and attempting the New York Times crossword puzzle. Then I notice the street outside Los Flamingos, the one filled with refuse, broken glass, and barbed wire fences and quickly reconsider – in reality it might end up depressing the hell out of me. Later we travel to La Quebrada to watch the cliff divers flying into the crashing tides hundreds of feet below. A bunch of swaggering teenage boys in Speedos, they make these daring feats look graceful, easy and fluid. Not a drop of hesitation or fear in their faces when we meet them afterwards, yet when we drive the coast on the way back I notice several altars honoring the Virgin Mary placed high on these same deadly cliffs. It is clear that the boys themselves have placed her up here, hoping Mary will watch over them and protect them from the unthinkable. Lunch is had at a small organic restaurant by Acapulco Bay – chicken tacos, guacamole with freshly baked tortilla chips and cool Pacifico beers. Chihuahua cheese covers everything, both the tacos and the guacamole, adding a layer of decadence to an already calorific meal, but I argue to myself that it would be a travesty to miss out on the local cuisine and thereby justify the gluttonous indulgence.

The following day dawns in Manzanillo, surprisingly cooler than Acapulco and slightly less dusty. After taking a brief tour of the downtown and avoiding the usual throng of tourist-trap stores stuffed floor to ceiling with crap: cheap t-shirts, shot glasses, bottles of bad tequila and straw purses galore we set out to see Las Hadas – one of the most picturesque resorts on the outskirts of town. As the setting for Bo Derek’s infamous run down the beach in the movie “10” both the scenery and the hotel prove to be as gorgeous as they appear in the film. The resort itself is an imposing whitewashed adobe masterpiece sprawling over acres and acres of carefully landscaped gardens and golf courses. We are greeted by dozens of employees who appear (or are paid to appear I would imagine) intensely excited to see us and golf carts are deployed to take us from the lobby down the steep, winding hills to the waterfront restaurant below. The restaurant itself is a shady outdoor structure complete with spinning ceiling fans, palapa roof, and beautifully tiled floors. We spend the rest of the day here listening to a mariachi band, drinking white wine and eating freshly caught dorado while we stare at the waves. Although I am not a resort person, I could easily imagine checking into a suite here and enjoying the luxury of time, weather, cold margaritas and warm sand.

Zip Lining & More In Costa Rica

2008-01-25T19:56:00.000-05:00

If you take a 40 minute drive from the port town of Puntarenas in Costa Rica along well-paved roads and head towards Mahogany Park, you will initially pass a series of large, modern homes with neatly trimmed shrubbery and later on, as the route takes you deeper into the interior, you will pass through smaller neighborhoods in more remote areas where dozens of houses are roofed in what appears to be industrial strength corrugated metal, some of them with missing windows, some with dirt floors, you will see large families bathing outside in the cool river water together, groups of children riding their bicycles up and down the road, and unsupervised chickens and dogs ambling lazily wherever they please. It is here that you will eventually find a small entrance to Mahogany Park. Once inside this protected swath of primary jungle it will nearly vibrate with the sounds of animal and plant life – the gentle rustling of leaves in the warm wind that sound like the far off crashing of waves on the shore, the skittering of iguanas across the sun-dappled floor, the chirping and beating of wings coming from somewhere, anywhere above you in a nearly unfathomable vast expanse of wilderness so sensuous in its lushness, that dripping with vines and adorned with wild orchids you can’t help but think yourself lucky for discovering this new world before you - seemingly untouched by man.

This was where Matt and I found ourselves on our first time in Costa Rica. It is impossible not to be charmed by this country that seems so full of life and beauty, both the people and the terrain are lively, engaging and generous in their warmth and spirit. After arriving at the reception area of Mahogany Park and putting on our gear to go zip lining with – a helmet and a confusing array of harnesses and pulleys – we walked deeper into the jungle with our guides, quietly soaking in the beauty of the wildlife around us and pausing only at the guides’ behest to smell the leaf of a lime tree or to taste the essence of a plant used to flavor licorice. One short safety lecture later, and full of helpful hints like “Do not remove your safety line from the tree” (which I certainly had never even considered, wanting to make it out of this zip lining adventure alive) we began. Our guides hooked us in and we were off. Any terror I had initially felt dissipated and was quickly replaced by a feeling of weightlessness as I flew through the air, feeling as though I was suspended by nothing but the clouds, and to be at eye level with colorful macaws and screaming howler monkeys while your feet zip over the enormous tops of hundred-year old trees, this rush of green beneath your feet as you zoom above it all – it unearthed in me, as I would imagine it has in other adults, a rediscovered sense of childish awe for the natural world around me.

After spending several hours zip lining and hiking in the park we ended up back in Puntarenas, famished by our adventures and feeling celebratory for just surviving. We indulged in a few local beers (both the Imperial and the Pilsen were light and refreshing) at the Gugas Bar and Restaurant, just a few blocks back from the beach and decided to order the local specialty for lunch, the Casados plate - which generally includes either steak/fish/chicken (we had fish) as well as beans, rice, fried plantain, noodles and salad. All this for only $9 was a total bargain, and the fried plantain was outrageously good as was the freshly caught fish – spicy, flaky and delicious. Later on we wandered to a tiny oceanfront bar shack called Bun Bum (for the name alone we couldn’t resist going inside) and treated ourselves to a few more $2 Imperials. For the price of one New York City martini you can eat an enormous meal and get a local beer in Costa Rica. While for the savvy traveler, these kind of prices alone might make it a tempting vacation destination, Costa Rica also has so much more to entice tourists – the beauty of tropical forests, a warm and vibrant people, and more adventure oriented activities than you can shake a stick at. We definitely plan on heading back here as soon as we can get around to it…until then, I’ll be dreaming of fried plantains.

Cunard's Afternoon Tea: It Had Me At Hello

2008-01-21T19:35:00.001-05:00

Seeing as I was gainfully employed before this trip it’s been quite awhile since I dropped everything I was doing to linger over tea and scones on a weekday. Let’s face it – we Americans just aren’t as good at balancing work and play as the Europeans are. Barring Kindergarten, when was the last time your boss suggested you stop your work mid-afternoon to enjoy a drink and a snack? Exactly. Which speaking of Kindergarten begs another question: whatever happened to the afternoon nap? That’s a tradition I wouldn’t mind bringing back as I totally heart the idea of employees passing out on a bunch of carpet squares under their desks after lunch.

Anyways, due to the fact that Cunard is a British company they love to observe all of the usual British customs aboard their ships - like enforcing formality in dress (no shorts allowed in the evening…ever), encouraging passengers to sing along to traditional British pub songs that no one except the British have ever heard of, and facilitating the serving of afternoon tea. Aboard the Queen Victoria this last ritual takes place daily from 3:30 to 4:30 in the Queen’s Room, a double-height ballroom that is at once impressively grand and yet also cozy (or cosy, if you must) enough to encourage hushed conversations and intimate gatherings. Here white-gloved waiters glide across the dance floor carrying silver trays laden with steaming scones, clotted cream and jam, and bite-sized éclairs. Savory finger sandwiches overflowing with egg salad and cucumber are served with silver tongs, hot cups of tea are poured and a harpist (how elegant!) plays standards like “Moon River” and “Someone To Watch Over Me.” It’s enough to make a girl forget herself and start speaking in a fake-British accent just like Madonna. I mean Madge. *Sigh*

With that said, the Brits are on to something good here. The idea of pressing pause mid-day and taking a moment to breathe, to enjoy the company of those you care about, and to take a much needed break from the chaos of the world outside is something we Americans could learn from. Now excuse me while I go eat some bangers and mash.

Aruba: One Happy Island

2008-01-19T17:56:00.001-05:00

The slogan on Aruba’s license plate reads “One Happy Island.” These three simple words accurately convey the carefree attitude of the locals, the slapdash charm of the brightly colored bungalows, and the prevalence of loud Caribbean music emanating from the (very) slowly moving cars. All of this easy allure set amid an astonishingly beautiful landscape results in a sort of zany, smoked out utopia, where everyone is always high or else just very, very polite all of the time. Strangers wave enthusiastically to each other as they pass on the road, friendly chitchat is a way of life, and no one ever lays on the horn. Goats and lizards hold up traffic by skittering across dusty roads, service is inattentive (yet affable), and it always seems to be 5 o’clock somewhere. I witnessed no scowling, no pushiness and no impatience from either customers or those employed anywhere on the island – and if you have ever shopped at a Duane Reade drugstore in Manhattan and have witnessed the surly behavior of both customer and employee you will appreciate this surprise along with me.

However, this sunny island idyll is not for everyone. Frankly, sophisticated nightlife and dining options would deter those looking for a four or five star experience. You won’t find caviar and Russian vodka, and I’d imagine even a Cosmo might be hard to come by (although I didn’t embarrass myself by checking given the fact that we were at a dive bar). Aruba doesn’t strike me as this type of an island. Instead, it’s best suited for outdoor adventure seekers, laidback sun-worshippers or penny pinching students looking to soak up a little local charm while they spend their days in the water.

We happened to spend the day on an adventure of our own off-roading around the island in Jeeps – bumping over rocky hills, dirt roads, and arid brush as we witnessed the beauty of six natural bridges carved out of the landscape by erosion. We also made pit stops at the famous California lighthouse, the Alto Vista Chapel and the Casibari Rock formation, choosing to finish the day snorkeling around the coral reefs. Topping it all off with a few Balashis (the local beer here) at a second-story bar overlooking the island’s coastline was the perfect ending to a perfect day.

Bazooka Joe: Not Just Gum

2008-01-18T17:24:00.000-05:00

Last night we ended up again at Hemispheres (see pic), our favorite bar on the Queen Victoria. One of the many charming bartenders hipped us to a shot that tastes exactly like bubble gum, hence its moniker – The Bazooka Joe Shot. To make this at home: add 1/3 Blue Curacao, 1/3 Crème de Banana, 1/3 Baileys and shake vigorously before pouring into shot glasses. Sip and enjoy! Tomorrow we’re off to explore Aruba and will have more to report…for now, it’s back to the sundeck as I need to work on my tan. I’m going head to head with one of the bartenders in a competitive “tan-off.” Given the fact that he’s a Brit and I’m Irish this should be a pretty pathetic showing on both of our parts, but mark your calendars people - April 10th I will be reporting from the Lido Deck on who will win $50 American dollars and claim the honor of being the tannest.

Shaken Not Stirred

2008-01-17T18:10:00.000-05:00

It’s cocktail time here as we cruise the coast of Cuba and we have our iPods plugged into these handy Altec Lansing travel speakers so we can listen to music as we sit barefoot in our cabin, playing cards and sipping summer drinks. We’ve spent most of the day celebrating the switch to hot weather by sitting on the upper deck of the Queen Victoria enjoying glasses of Stella, giving each other high fives, slathering our pasty bodies with sunblock (hot, I know...) and swimming in one of the two pools. The good thing about going on vacation with British people (besides the fact that they have cute accents and spell things like program "programme") is that they're paler than you are, and more likely to burn. (e.g. We were not the only dorks with Coppertone 30+ poolside.)

I was also a lucky enough girl to receive one of my birthday presents early – the new Flip Video Recorder and it’s pretty much the best travel accessory ever. It records up to 60 minutes of footage, is lighter than an iPod and is roughly the same size as a deck of cards. Within 30 seconds of receiving it I had installed the batteries and figured out how to use it, so don’t worry if you’re not a techie – it’s pretty basic. Best of all, you can edit your videos, add music and do all sorts of cool things with the footage once you download the video to your computer. And, for your enjoyment, our…

Summer Cocktail Playlist

Water No Get No Enemy – Fela Kuti
Represent, Cuba – Orishas & Heather Headley
Listen Up! – The Gossip
Family Reunion – Jill Scott
Number One – John Legend & Kanye West
Mary Jane (DJ Green Lantern Remix) – Rick James
The Seed (2.0) – The Roots & Cody Chestnutt
Music – Erick Sermon & Marvin Gaye
Good Time – Leela James
Little Mysteries – Rickie Lee Jones
Bandy Bandy – Zap Mama & Erykah Badu
I’m Still In Love With You – Sean Paul
Hey Baby – Stephen Marley & Mos Def
Bedstuy Parade & Funeral March – Mos Def
Big Chief – Dirty Dozen Brass Band & Dr. John
Whole Lotta Loving – Lenny Kravitz & Rebirth Brass Band
Tell Me What We’re Gonna Do Now – Joss Stone
LDN – Lily Allen
Heart of Glass – Swan Dive
Funky Kingston – Toots & The Maytals
Inspiration Information – Shuggie Otis
Hey Love – Stevie Wonder
Yes, Yes, Y’all – Sergio Mendes & Black Thought, Chali
Too Drunk to F**k – Nouvelle Vague
Chan Chan – Buena Vista Social Club
Guajira – Yerba Buena
It’s Your Last Chance To Dance – Preservation Hall Jazz Band
My Girl Josephine – Taj Mahal & The New Orleans Social Club
I’m On Your Side – Keb’ Mo’

First Stop, Everglades

2008-01-16T19:34:00.003-05:00

Formally dedicated by President Truman in 1947, these 1 million-plus acres of wetlands are now home to a veritable treasure trove of rare animal and plant specimens – at last count over 16 different endangered species and six threatened species.

As the waters in the Everglades are notoriously shallow and also full of man-eating beasts, one of the best ways to fully explore the flora and fauna is not by foot, but by fan boat, a vessel perfect for navigating the two inch to one foot deep natural waterways. And although it’s loud as hell due to the fact that the boat propels itself using air rather than water (we were given toilet paper to create makeshift earplugs – very high-tech), once the guide cut the motor we were able to drift silently through the miles of gently rippling saw grass without disrupting the sunbathing alligators, gracefully wading egrets and splashing turtles as we glided through the dark waters of the park and into the depths of an entirely different world from the hustle and bustle of spring break Florida. Similar to watching “An Inconvenient Truth” (albeit minus my crying jag at the end to Melissa Etheridge’s “I Need to Wake Up”) seeing these plants and animals and witnessing the beauty of one of our nation’s most glorious parks recommitted me to my intention to lessen my impact on the natural world around me.

Cabin Fever

2008-01-15T23:06:00.000-05:00

The past few days at sea have been relaxing – lazy afternoons and evenings spent drinking cocktails, dancing and making new friends, but at the end of the day I’m still a New Yorker and like to rush, rush, rush to do everything. Unfortunately, my latest bout of seasickness has left me hunkering down in my cabin sporting a pair of Sea Bands that a) do not stem my tsunami-like waves of nausea and b) resemble something Richard Simmons might wear in a “Sweatin’ to the Oldies” video. Oh happy days are here again. However, the silver lining in all of this was that I was finally able to make it to dinner tonight at the chichi Brittania, which is the formal dining room aboard the Queen Victoria. Matt and I had previously been relegated to eating dinner in our room or on the Lido Deck because Cunard had given away our table for two and then attempted to seat us at a table for eight (not happening), with no apologies and no guarantees of rectifying the situation. Yeesh – at a minimum I can say this was not a positive customer service experience and we owe our undying gratitude to our darling travel agents for making things right. In fairness, I must say that everything else (our cabin and experiences with the bartenders/waiters/cleaning personnel) have been excellent, but Matt and I have heard a lot of complaints from other passengers. Naturally, a maiden voyage on any ship will have some kinks – but when the hot water isn’t working, or guests are woken by banging from the kitchen, or their cabins smell like bacon all day – I’d imagine it has quite an impact on the enjoyment of their vacation.

Now on to the positive stuff: the service at the Brittania was wonderful. Our waiter and sommelier were at our table almost immediately and went above and beyond to make our meal as enjoyable as possible. The food was presented elegantly and was delicious – I had the halibut with mashed potatoes and veggies. An additional plus goes to Cunard for thinking to create a spa menu featuring healthier fare (a nice alternative to have when you're spending 3 months aboard the ship and have to fit into the clothes you brought). My main complaint resides in the fact that the hosts force guests to accept squirts of hand sanitizer from a giant econo-sized plastic bottle as they walk in, I'm not sure I've ever seen this even at an Arby's, and I 've got to be honest here - a little déclassé for a cruise company that brands itself as a luxury ship. Then again, I should probably be thankful that their Nazi-like attention to germs will prevent the spread of disease (since I imagine that sickness spreads fast and brutal on a cruise ship much like the barfing does in that quintessential scene from "Stand By Me").

It’s off to bed early for us tonight as we’re waking up at the A.C. tomorrow to jump ship and explore the Everglades in fan boats. We’re so excited to experience our first port and also need to recover from our past few late nights that have been spent doing shots, dancing to Bob Marley, befriending bartenders and entertainers at every watering hole onboard, and getting up on stage at the piano bar to lead the audience in the hand gestures for “Sweet Caroline."

Bon Voyage NYC!

2008-01-14T18:33:00.000-05:00

Words cannot properly sum up the sense of elation that Matt and I felt last evening as we waved goodbye to Manhattan and set sail for warmer climes aboard the Queen Victoria. As we departed New York City, sailing down the Hudson River to the Statue of Liberty, we stood outside on deck amid the snow flurries drinking glasses of champagne and cheering (loudly!) at the incredible fireworks display that Cunard had arranged to be set off to celebrate the meeting of all three of their historic ocean liners in one location.

So far, almost everything onboard has been amazing. Our room is larger and more luxurious than expected, the bed itself is the most comfortable I have ever slept in, and the bartenders (already my friends) are a hilarious, enthusiastic and completely delightful bunch. They’ve already taught me how to make a new drink, which I’ll share with you in a moment, but the polite term for the shot is Springbok, after the South African rugby team (but is also known more crassly as “Shit On The Grass”). Layer the shot glass with half Crème de Menthe (bottom), and half Bailey’s (top), it’s brown and green and surprisingly delicious given the fact that it’s made up entirely of after dinner liqueurs.

The only hiccup thus far in the journey lies in the dining experience which has been, well – challenging. Although we were confirmed before departure on a table for two, the maitre d’ attempted to seat us at a table for eight and was unable (or unwilling) to fix our seating arrangement. The head of guest services, who could use an additional course or two in er, guest service was also less than helpful. No worries! Our fabulous travel agents The Travel Siblings, who have been insightful, well-organized and beyond helpful every step of the way are taking care of it so that Matt and I can rest easy. An extra shout out of appreciation to them as they were so thoughtful as to have champagne and canapés sent to our state room on our first night at sea – when I received them I jumped on the bed a la Julia Roberts in “Pretty Woman.” They really are our fairy godparents and we are so pleased to have them helping us along in our journeys. This experience has taught me to always, always, always book my trips through a travel agent – if something goes wrong you can turn to them to help you, otherwise you just may be out of luck!

Imelda Marcos Called, She Wants Her Shoes Back

2008-01-13T08:42:00.000-05:00

Six suitcases, two daypacks and one purse later it appears that my husband and I are finally ready to leave for our 105-day journey around the globe. Like any paranoid New Yorker preparing to travel outside the borough of Manhattan, I have procured enough prescription meds from my doctor to open a free clinic (and/or sustain a village full of robots from the Old Glory Insurance Commercial). Neurotic? Perhaps. But we'll see who will be laughing after that seafood dinner in Pago Pago goes terribly wrong...

Also, in the spirit of journalistic transparency, I will openly admit that one of the six aforementioned suitcases is full of nothing but my shoes. At last count: 12 pairs (my friend Coots forced me to physically count them, one by one, so she could make fun of me) yet I stand by my Imelda Marcos-like behavior and will argue that in my defense, there is a DSW down the street. As every woman knows, anything bought on sale simply does not count. (Just like calories consumed at dessert also do not count).

We'll be embarking from the New York City Harbor this evening and as it's the first time the three "Queens" will be convening in one place (how very British to name your cruise ships after monarchs!) the Queen Mary, Queen Elizabeth II and the Queen Victoria will all sail past the Statue of Liberty in tandem as a display of fireworks is set off to celebrate this "Royal Rendezvous" (their words, not mine). So that you can follow along with us as we travel, without further ado, the itinerary below:

January 2008

13
Sun
New York, New York

14
Mon
Cruising the Atlantic Ocean

15
Tue
Cruising the Atlantic Ocean

16
Wed
Fort Lauderdale, Florida

17
Thu
Cruising the Straits of Florida

18
Fri
Cruising the Caribbean Sea

19
Sat
Oranjestad, Aruba

20
Sun
Cruising the Caribbean Sea

21
Mon
Transiting the Panama Canal

22
Tue
Cruising the Pacific Ocean

23
Wed
Puntarenas, Costa Rica

24
Thu
Cruising the Pacific Ocean

25
Fri
Cruising the Pacific Ocean

26
Sat
Acapulco, Mexico

27
Sun
Manzanillo, Mexico

28
Mon
Cruising the Pacific Ocean

29
Tue
Cruising the Pacific Ocean

30
Wed
Los Angeles, California

31
Thu
Cruising the Pacific Ocean

February 2008

1
Fri
Cruising the Pacific Ocean

2
Sat
Cruising the Pacific Ocean

3
Sun
Cruising the Pacific Ocean

4
Mon
Honolulu, Oahu, Hawaii

5
Tue
Cruising the Pacific Ocean

6
Wed
Cruising the Pacific Ocean

7
Thu
Cruising the Pacific Ocean

8
Fri
Cruising the Pacific Ocean

9
Sat
Pago Pago, American Samoa

10
Sun
Cross International Dateline - Lost Day

11
Mon
Cruising the South Pacific Ocean

12
Tue
Lautoka, Fiji

13
Wed
Cruising the South Pacific Ocean

14
Thu
Cruising the South Pacific Ocean

15
Fri
Auckland, New Zealand

16
Sat
Napier, New Zealand

17
Sun
Wellington, New Zealand

18
Mon
Cruising the South Pacific Ocean

19
Tue
Cruising the South Pacific Ocean

20
Wed
Cruising the Tasman Sea

21
Thu
Melbourne, Australia

22
Fri
Cruising the Tasman Sea

23
Sat
Sydney, Australia

24
Sun
Sydney, Australia

25
Mon
Cruising the Pacific Ocean

26
Tue
Brisbane, Australia

27
Wed
Cruising the Pacific Ocean

28
Thu
Cruising the Pacific Ocean

29
Fri
Port Douglas (for Great Barrier Reef), Australia

March 2008

1
Sat
Cruising the Coral Sea

2
Sun
Cruising the Coral Sea

3
Mon
Cruising the Banda Sea

4
Tue
Cruising the Celebes Sea

5
Wed
Cruising the South China Sea

6
Thu
Kota Kinabalu, Malaysia

7
Fri
Cruising the South China Sea

8
Sat
Cruising the South China Sea

9
Sun
Hong Kong

10
Mon
Cruising the South China Sea

11
Tue
Da Nang (Chan May), Vietnam

12
Wed
Cruising the South China Sea

13
Thu
Ho Chi Minh City (Phu My), Vietnam

14
Fri
Cruising the South China Sea

15
Sat
Bangkok (Laem Chabang), Thailand

16
Sun
Ko Samui, Thailand

17
Mon
Cruising the South China Sea

18
Tue
Singapore

19
Wed
Kuala Lumpur (Port Kelang), Malaysia

20
Thu
Penang, Malaysia

21
Fri
Cruising the Andaman Sea

22
Sat
Cruising the Bay of Bengal

23
Sun
Chennai (formerly Madras), India

24
Mon
Cruising the Bay of Bengal

25
Tue
Cruising the Indian Ocean

26
Wed
Cochin, India

27
Thu
Cruising the Indian Ocean

28
Fri
Mumbai, India

29
Sat
Cruising the Arabian Sea

30
Sun
Cruising the Gulf of Oman

31
Mon
Dubai, United Arab Emirates

April 2008

1
Tue
Cruising the Gulf of Oman

2
Wed
Cruising the Arabian Sea

3
Thu
Salalah, Oman

4
Fri
Cruising the Arabian Sea

5
Sat
Cruising the Gulf of Aden

6
Sun
Cruising the Red Sea

7
Mon
Safaga (for Luxor/Karnak), Egypt

8
Tue
Safaga (for Luxor/Karnak), Egypt

9
Wed
Transiting the Suez Canal

10
Thu
Cruising the Mediterranean Sea

11
Fri
Athens (Piraeus), Greece

12
Sat
Cruising the Aegean Sea

13
Sun
Naples, Italy

14
Mon
Rome (Civitavecchia), Italy

15
Tue
Cruising the Mediterranean Sea

16
Wed
Barcelona, Spain

17
Thu
Cruising the Strait of Gibraltar

18
Fri
Cruising the Atlantic Ocean

19
Sat
Lisbon, Portugal

20
Sun
Cruising the Atlantic Ocean

21
Mon
Cruising the Atlantic Ocean

22
Tue
Southampton, England

Transfer to Queen Mary 2
7:00 am

22
Tue
Southampton, England

23
Wed
Cruising the Atlantic Ocean

24
Thu
Cruising the Atlantic Ocean

25
Fri
Cruising the Atlantic Ocean

26
Sat
Cruising the Atlantic Ocean

27
Sun
Cruising the Atlantic Ocean

28
Mon
New York, New York
Disembark

Bric's Luggage: Champagne Taste On A Beer Budget

2008-01-12T08:41:00.001-05:00

Finding stylish, practical luggage can be a total nightmare: the luxury brands are thousands of dollars and the cheaper brands tend to look, well, cheap. No worries: Bric's has your back. My favorite carry-on piece for women is the Tuscan Cosmetic Tote ($310) which fits all of those blow dryers, straightening irons and bottles of leave-in conditioner without a hitch, while the 18-inch Duffle ($345) is perfect for men with its short leather handles and rugged Harrison Ford good looks. This perfect marriage of function and fashion is available at Luggage Online.

Why Travel The World? Why Now?

2008-01-11T08:57:00.000-05:00

We've been asked the same few questions by friends, family, coworkers and even by the dude making lattes at our local Starbucks: Why travel the world? Why now? So here are the top ten reasons we ditched NYC, emptied our bank accounts, and denied our non-existent children a secure future...

10. Climbing the Sydney Harbor Bridge beats climbing the corporate ladder.

9. Exotic drinks are always better when enjoyed in exotic locations.

8. The best place to turn 30 is at sea, on a ship full of strangers where you can turn 29...again.

7. Because launching a pro-shuffleboard career is as easy as befriending some elderly cruisers.

6. We don't have a mortgage yet. Or those things called kids.

5. Because sailing the world is so much better than driving it.

4. We're on a goodwill tour of the world, trying to make up for President Bush's last 7 years in office.

3. Eating gelato on the Spanish Steps like Audrey Hepburn in Roman Holiday is better than eating Tasti D-Lite on the subway steps, while people run over you.

2. Three little words: No phone service.

1. Everyday is an adventure.

**This Sunday, we set sail on the Queen Victoria!**

Chic Resort Wear: An Oxymoron?

2008-01-10T09:54:00.001-05:00

Perhaps it can be blamed on my husband's addiction to Seinfeld - that episode where George sells all of his father's moth infested "cruisewear" to a consignment shop. Or the fact that my grandmother and I used to watch The Golden Girls - in which a group of women rock Floridian fashion right down to its foundation: the quintessential polyester blend pant suit. As many people do, I believe everything I see on TV except of course - Fox News. Which is a true oxymoron. But up until recently I'll admit that I thought all resort wear was inherently ugly - involving (but not necessarily limited to) Hawaiian shirts, leisure suits and anything old men from the suburbs might wear with dark knee socks and mandals while browsing open air markets for tchokes in the Bahamas. Turns out, I was wrong. This isn't the first time, my husband would say.

So for those of you needing chic clothes for your winter getaways - don't despair. You won't end up like Rue McClanahan in a bunch of faux silk separates. There is hope. Surprisingly, there are a ton of stores that sell fabulous items perfect for vacationing, but also chic enought to wear once you arrive back home among people you actually know. (Traveling tip: always keep in mind the "Would I wear this back home?" question. Or one could end up like Monica from Friends.) A few of my fave shops? J. Crew, Banana Republic, Calypso and Lilly Pulitzer for dresses, skirts and accessories. Old Navy and Gap for online bargains in the basics department (shorts, t-shirts, etc.). And Bloomingdale's and Lord & Taylor have large collections of cute suits and beach cover-ups.

New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs - Pleasing Palates And Wallets Worldwide

2008-01-09T11:49:00.000-05:00

Matt and I are amateur oenophiles, so while we're in the Hawke's Bay region of New Zealand this February we'll be touring several vineyards and tasting as many different wines as we can. And unlike the wine critics I can assure you I'll be swallowing, not spitting. (For you "Office" fans out there: that's what she said.) Although we differ in our wine preferences (Matt enjoys lighter, unoaked wines and I gravitate toward old world reds like Brunello and Bordeaux) one of the whites we can both agree on is Sauvignon Blanc. Coincidentally, this varietal is produced in New Zealand by the barrelful and is "arguably the best in the world" according to Wikipedia, the all-knowing Oz of the internet. As such, I thought I'd pass along to you some of the best NZ Sauvignon Blancs that Matt and I have personally tasted in preparation for our trip, which also happen to be very reasonably priced.

Although it's not exactly cheap - the 2005 Cloudy Bay rings in at less than $30 and is a real steal given its high quality. We also like the fruitier and slightly less expensive 2005 Te Whare Ra. I'll admit it's a bit more difficult to find in the States than the Cloudy Bay is (we ordered ours through a distributor) but most wine stores will try to hook you up with whatever it is you're looking for if you ask nicely. (Editor's Note: We've found Zachys to have a large selection of carefully edited wines both in-store and online, plus they post reviews when applicable which makes it easier to compare bottles.) In the extremely reasonable $17 and under range a sure bet is the 2007 Kim Crawford which is a perfect bottle to bring as a hostess gift. It's fruity, crisp and especially delicious in warmer weather, although we enjoy Sauvignon Blancs all year round. P.S. Don't be put off by the screwcaps on all of these bottles: they're making a comeback as screwcaps are often able to preserve wine better than corks by eliminating 1. the chance of cork taint and 2. the chance of wine oxidizing prematurely, both of which can happen quite often with regular corks. Cheers!

Breaking News: Andy Samberg - Smarter, Funnier Than Me

2008-01-08T08:26:00.000-05:00

People have been asking me about our 105-day world cruise itinerary on Cunard's Queen Victoria. I'm not that great at geography so I tend to mix up the chronological order of our stops which compels my husband to interrupt me with statements like "No, no that's the Panama Canal not the Suez." In my defense I'm no Kellie Pickler but for those of you who, like me, find it easier to visualize your journey when it's all tricked out on a map, I discovered this sweet tool from Google Maps the other day that actually allows you to create custom travel itineraries online. Who knew that Andy Samberg had it so right when he busted the rhyme "Google Maps is the best. True dat, double true" in Lazy Sunday?

We'll be docking in the Everglades first - home to an amazing amount of wildlife and I'm pumped to take the airboats out and explore the National Park. Afterwards we'll be sailing to Aruba to lay out on the white sand beaches, explore the island on 4WD vehicles and naturally, partake of some rum-based cocktails. Well, I'm off to bake my husband some Sprinkles cupcakes as it's his last official day of work today! 5 days and counting...

I Heart Lomo's Diana Camera

2008-01-07T10:33:00.000-05:00

Just added to the suitcase - Lomo's legendary Diana camera.

Before you read any further, this camera isn't for techies. It's made of cheap-o plastic, lets light in and lacks all digital functioning. I know, I know - but in its defense the images it produces on film are lo-fi, color-saturated, moody masterpieces that instantly recall the cinematography of legendary director Wong Kar-wai in his most acclaimed film, In the Mood for Love .

The lowdown: The Diana is only $60, uses real film and creates the kind of photographs that you've only seen hanging in galleries up until now. Buy the ringflash for another $65 and experiment with color. Check out Lomo's Diana gallery for a taste of old-school goodness. Also, just in case you're wondering...six days until we kick off our global journey on January 13, 2008. I can hardly wait to start snapping pictures of the Everglades (our first stop) with my Diana.

The World, One Port At A Time

2008-01-06T18:41:00.000-05:00

I can't believe it but in less than seven days my husband Matt and I will be leaving for our honeymoon on a 105-day world cruise. I'm veklempt. Our Manhattan apartment has been vacated, our jobs have been quit (oh to be a lady of leisure!) and here we are with clothing scattered across the floor wondering how we'll ever fit everything into our suitcases. For starters I've already packed my top 3 travel essentials: 1. my new Nicole Richie-eque sunglasses that protect me from the sun and er, hangovers 2. a gorgeous set of Votivo travel candles in Clean Crisp White (a fab holiday gift from a chic NYC friend) and 3. my iPod full of new mixes. You know, the necessities - a sweet smelling cabin, chic eyewear and music for the voyage. After all, how can you sit on a lounge chair sipping daiquiris sans shades and soundtrack?

We'll be sailing aboard Cunard's newest ship, the Queen Victoria, as she circumnavigates the globe on her maiden world voyage for the next three and a half months - not exactly your everyday getaway and the culmination of over a year of planning on our part. Matt and I will be visiting more than 30 destinations together - with stops as diverse as Hong Kong, Fiji, Costa Rica and New Zealand. I'll be posting notes and photos of the people and places we encounter on our journey as well as travel tips, restaurant, bar and shopping reviews and amenities offered onboard the Queen Victoria. Come along with us as we snorkle the Great Barrier Reef, eat street food in Malaysia, ride rickshaws in Singapore and experience the thrill of walking through some of the oldest and holiest temples in India.